Wednesday 3rd of June 2026

Nairobi, Kenya

Rosario Dawson, Thebe Magugu, and More Join Vogue’s Virtual Forces of Fashion Summit

On July 7 and 8, 2021, Vogue will host its fifth annual Forces of Fashion summit. The virtual series will feature candid conversations between industry leaders, including designer John Galliano, makeup artist Pat McGrath, stylist Zerina Akers, and Vogue’s Anna Wintour. And today comes the announcement of a new panel spotlighting five important new voices in fashion from across the globe.

Thebe Magugu, Priya Ahluwalia, Yueqi Qi, Abrima Erwiah, and Rosario Dawson will join Vogue.com editor Chioma Nnadi for a discussion about what it means to build a brand with impeccable authenticity. Each brings a strong point of view and an entirely fresh perspective. Magugu recently won the coveted LVMH prize for his South African–based clothing line of the same name. Ahluwalia has made waves with her eco-friendly menswear on the London fashion scene and beyond.

Qi’s eponymous, Shanghai-based label features otherworldly beading with a modern sensibility. (No surprise, as Qi, previously worked as an embroidery designer for Chanel.) Finally, Erwiah and Dawson’s brand, Studio One Eighty-Nine, showcases the beauty of African design while prioritizing artisanal craftsmanship and ethical business practices; the New York design duo was also recently nominated for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund 2021.

More details and tickets are available on the Forces of Fashion website. Check back for updates ahead of the event, which will take place on July 7 and 8.

Content courtesy of Vogue Magazine 

African Fashion Foundation Set To Host First-Ever Creative Industry Retreat In Africa

The African Fashion Foundation (AFF) presents the first-ever Creative Industry Retreat in Africa. The three-day event is scheduled for Wednesday, 19th May to Sunday, 23rd May 2021 and aimed at igniting and facilitating critical and valuable discussions around the industry ecosystem.

The three-day event will provide a unique platform for industry players and stakeholders to convene, collaborate and build solid partnerships needed to scale the fashion ecosystem in Africa. Ghana is set to be the convening point for this trailblazing three-day event. It will focus on the theme “Building a Sustainable Value Chain for Africa’s Creative Industry”Discussions will focus on the need to forge real links in Africa’s creative industry, the strategic role of Development Finance Institutions within the sector and the need to drive the sustainability agenda.

 

This groundbreaking event seeks to foster industry collaboration and position the creative economy to become sustainable and resilient. It will host top creative industry players and professionals including Claudia Lumor – Glitz Africa, Adama Ndiaye – Adama Paris, Nisha Kanabar – Industrie Africa, Roberta Annan – African Fashion Foundation, Adeline Akufo-Addo Kufuor – The Lotte Accra; Viola Labi – Founder of Woven Worldwide, Jennifer Ronne – Victoria Grace Fashion; Fashion Icon & Broadcaster KOD, P. Y. Addo-Boateng – Mi Prime Entertainment, Emmanuel Uba Okoro – Emmy Kasbit, Nuel Bans – Debonair Afrik, Rebecca Donkor, Maame Adjei – Sweet Roots Media, Arieta Mujay Barg – Creative Strategist, Renown Fashion Writer Ekow Barnes, Writer & Humanitarian, Rozan Ahmed and Fredericka Brooksworth, Founder of Fashion Scholar.

The Retreat also seeks to reiterate AFF’s commitment towards sustainability and showcase its sustainability project, Recycle, Re-work, Re-use, a fashion sustainability project which was launched in March in collaboration with five young African fashion brands to address the issue of fashion waste and sustainable product life cycles. They include Omaliko Godson Ebuka- Maliko, Omafume Niemogha- Peperrow, Samuel Otteng, Baboa Tachie- Menson – Balm labs.

Content courtesy of Modern Ghana & Nairobi fashion hub 

Fashion Designer Kithe Brewster’s Catwalks Remove Cultural Roadblocks

Kithe Brewster is an American stylist and fashion designer and founder of the Kithe Brewster brand and company. Leaving for Paris at age nineteen proved to be the right cut for him, as he immediately grasped the French scene, becoming a hot stylish on the move.

After seven years in Paris, he moved to London, where music styling became his forte. While in London, he worked for magazines such as Elle, Scene, Vanity Fair, Interview, Flaunt, Chic (Dutch), French and American Jalouse, and Surface, among others.

His work for these publications gained attention from the crème de la crème of fashion, as well as the European and Hollywood celebrity elite. He has styled covers for Flaunt magazine with stars such as Adrien Brody, Cate Blanchett, Drew Barrymore, Selma Hayek, Winona Ryder, and many others.

His personal clients have included Halle Berry, Julianne Moore, Iman, Diane Lane, Eva Mendes, Usher, and Heidi Klum. He has spent a great deal of time in the Middle East, in Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, and the UAE. He was Creative Director of DIFW, the original Fashion Week. “I predicted on record,” he says, “that Dubai would become a major fashion capital.”

Currently, in Dubai, Brewster spoke to Gulf Today

Why did you choose the fashion industry as your place of work?

I would like to think my early exposure to the arts in all aspects was definitely a deciding factor. From a very young age, I was extremely conscious of clothing and its many textures. At five or six, I truly understood the definition of beauty.

Looking back, I adored rummaging through my mother’s closets and just appreciating the quality; I was quick to notice when something missed this quality.

It was truly organic in this sense, thus I believe I was chosen. As a man of faith, there are no coincidences. I believe it is the Creator’s plan – the journey and the results.

What are the African-American sensitivities you bring to fashion?

Being African and American contributes a great deal to my creative DNA. I am balanced in rich history and tradition. As a designer, my gift is my hands, draping and manipulating fabric to create one-of-a-kind designs. This is rich African tradition the sense of color and dynamic.

There is a European side of my makeup, which leads me to seek out Europe to discover this sense of style. I was a huge success as a stylist, fashion editor, and celebrity stylist, because of the balance of multiple culture comprehension. In fact, it’s the understanding of all global cultures combined, that is needed to truly be a voice in fashion.

Is fashion only for celebrities or can it be shared by others?

Fashion is, in my belief, for everyone. I definitely think we all want and need the confidence of looking and then feeling good. I spend a lot of time observing the influences in modern society. I’m certain it trickles down, in some capacity, to reach everyone.

Is Faith a constraint on fashion?

I believe Faith is in no way a restraining measure in fashion. For example, my time in the UAE and other Arab countries, helped me to see the progression of High Fashion and Modesty. When I was Creative Director of Dubai Fashion Week, I helped to discover the amazing talent of Rabia Z.

I had the huge pleasure to nurture her and pushing her vision of modesty and the Muslim woman. At that time, twelve years ago, we made history with her first show in Dubai. I get goosebumps when I think back and hear the live drums and the first entrance of the first model.

We proved successfully that within modesty, one can be fashion-forward and completely true to one’s faith, respecting the modesty it is built upon. I cried like a baby that night when she received a true standing ovation. We had managed to inspire Muslim women. It was a historic moment and I have watched a global progression in High Fashion inspired by the modesty of Muslim women. Let’s not forget my first ever collection was inspired by Emirati women.

Is there a distinction between ex-pat fashion and Emirati fashion? If so, what are their defining features?

There is a difference between ex-pat fashion and Emirati fashion. There is a merging of sophistication and class in Emirati fashion. Expat fashion tends to hinge upon trends from Europe, yet slightly behind. As an ex-pat, I say this in an opinion-based manner. What’s beautiful is when all of the incredible high fashion intertwines with traditional and modest apparel.

Why did you think Dubai could be a fashion center of the world?

I felt twelve years ago that Dubai would become a fashion capital because I saw the vision of Sheikh Mohammed and the impact of the year that I spent coming back and forwards from New York. The buildings were going up all around me. I saw it happening.

I felt the hunger for this country’s own place within fashion makeup. I pushed so hard to catch them up to the rest of the world. On a funny note, I got rid of the raised runways and had the models walk on the floor. It caused a huge uproar: it was in the papers. But when the rest of the world saw the shows that came out of Dubai, they were blown away. I convinced American Elle magazine to cover Fashion Week. It was a huge step that was aligned with Sheikh Mohammed’s vision.

How will you define your style?

Maison Kithe Brewster will define its style by being discerning and not by overcapitalizing or overexposing the brand. By always being consistent in style. By not selling the same thing to hundreds of clients.  By quality and personal attention to every client. By never running out of ideas, and creating original excellence.

Content courtesy of Gulf Today & Nairobi fashion hub 

What Went Down on Day 1 of SA Fashion Week SS21 Digital Collections

Sustainable fashion. Self-expression. Graceful and edgy artistry. Classic and playful elegance. Personal stories. And going back to basics.

This was Day 1 of SA Fashion Week SS21 digital collections which included fresh talent and legendary designers. Words: Kgomotso Moncho-Maripane

The SA Fashion Week tagline, “The business of ethical fashion” encapsulates its ethos precisely. Running with this, sustainable fashion became the underlying theme with which designers in the New Talent Search were tasked to follow when designing. Upcycled and deconstructed fabrics were a running thread all around.

With a collection inspired by “De-gendered geometry”, Michael Ludwig Studio showed how the fluidity of structures, proportions, and colors shape evolving identities.

MC Alpine played with interesting shapes and details, while Sipho Mbuto took an avant-garde approach to deconstruct denim.

Stand-out looks from the competition include Fikile Zamagcino Sokhulu’s soft and edgy collection boasting a red, white, and black color palette with images that boldly speak to the beginning and the resilience of life, relevant to what our world is going through.

Her collection was inspired by “how planet earth strives for an ecological balance within the forces of nature.”

The debut of Thulani Vuyo Mlambo’s Saint Vuyo shone with notable layering and tailoring. With a brand ethos taken from his lineage, the collection invoked the spirit of Africa’s women armies like the Dahomey Amazons – the all-female warriors of West Africa. Again, a testament to strength and survival.

However, it was Artho Eksteen’s winning combination of fine art and fashion design that saw him take the 2021 New Talent Search winner title.

His collection takes cues from the Surrealist method of Exquisite Corpse where a collection of images or words is collectively assembled to reveal a completed artwork.

Eksteen played with the juxtaposition of different fabrics and textures; different silhouettes and prints to bring together a body of work that is appealingly ugly-beautiful. The beauty is also in how functional the collection is even if it was to be deconstructed.

Read more on the New Talent Search Competition finalist designers here and watch out for our fashion shoot with New Talent Competition winner Artho Eksteen soon!

The Satiskin Rise & Shine Collections brimmed with playful and classic elegance showcasing designers who are retail ready. Romaria charmed with their signature monochromatic wool prints offering subtle pops of woven color. Even more charming were the wool accessories that ranged from bags to headbands.

The story behind the Ezokhetho collection is about the designer, Mpumelelo Dhlamini, having lost his dad. And so, the bold and joyful colors are in celebration of his father’s life. The designs are inspired by a character that the iconic Thembi Nyandeni played in the comedic drama series, Kwakhala Nyonini called uMfazi Wephepha.

The much-loved character was loud, opinionated, fashion-forward, and money-driven. Dhlamini interprets this with exaggerated shapes, playful proportions, and a sophisticated and desirable finish.

Previous New Talent Search winners, ERRE are consistent in the exquisite nuance they bring out in the fabrics they choose to work with. In the past, they have worked ingeniously with leather and moved past its limitations.

Here they highlight scuba fabric, velvet, and techno mesh with voluminous, dramatic, and powerful silhouettes.

Lara Klawikowski exuded elegant grace with her Inflorescence collection that boasts botanical hues and organic shapes resembling tarot tulips. Big on sustainability, her romantic looks were achieved from rewoven plastics and offcuts. See our recent story on Lara here.

Chiefs of Angels presented a rebellious edge with their punk rock-themed collection.

With Oscar Ncube’s fabric ripping and distressing, he showed a more punky expression than the technical design.

Jacques van der Watt closed off the night with a show that goes back to the very essence of what has made Black Coffee a formidable force in the design world.

The geometric prints and architectural structures were recognizable. It is the collection’s military and laid-back mood that brings it back to now as we fight for survival in this Covid19 pandemic. As poet Lebo Mashile says, “Style is in the survival of my people.”

Content courtesy of ASA Online Magazine & Nairobi fashion hub 

South African Fashion Week Kicks Off

South African Fashion Week (SAFW) begins its three-day schedule of shows today, with 28 designers, including LVMH prize finalist Lukhanyo Mdingi and finalists of SAFW’s 2021 new talent search competition, showcasing their collections digitally.

According to Lucilla Booyzen, director of SAFW, the trans-seasonal collections on the schedule were shot at the beginning of April at South Africa’s Mall of Africa and viewers will be able to purchase tickets on the SAFW website to view the collections via streaming platform Quicket.

While the digital format remains a necessity due to continued government restrictions to curb the spread of Covid-19 in South Africa, Booyzen also said broadcasting the shows digitally has the benefit of increasing the platform’s reach beyond South Africa.

This year’s main focus for SAFW is slow fashion, Booyzen told BoF. In practice, this focus takes different forms for different designers, with upcycling and working with natural fabrics like cotton, mohair, and wool being commonly utilised slow fashion tools among those showing at SAFW.

”South African Fashion Week’s goal of facilitating a slow fashion culture steeped in ecological sustainability by 2025 is supported by the majority of designers who are aligned with the platform,” Booyzen said.

This edition of SAFW also features a tribute to Wandi Nzimande, the co-founder of popular streetwear and lifestyle brand Loxion Kulca, who died earlier this year. The Loxion Kulca collection to be shown on the SAFW schedule was designed by House of Ole founder, Ole Ledimo.

Content courtesy of Business Of Fashion & Nairobi fashion hub 

How Viola Davis Won Awards Season with her Colorful Red Carpet Style

In this strangest of awards seasons, Viola Davis was a rare bright spot.

The 55-year-old star, who’s nominated for Best Actress at the 2021 Oscars for her performance in “Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom,” has captivated fashion lovers with her parade of colorful red-carpet looks over the past few months, injecting some much-needed joy into a year defined by a global pandemic and a long-overdue reckoning with systemic racism.

To be sure, Davis has long gravitated toward bold, bright hues on the red carpet. Who could forget the red-hot Armani she wore while accepting her Best Supporting Actress statuette for “Fences” at the 2017 Academy Awards, or the bubblegum pink Michael Kors column she chose for the same show the following year?

But, in 2021, the majority of the Juilliard grad’s vibrant-as-ever red-carpet looks were designed not by the usual red-carpet heavy hitters, but lesser-known labels led by creatives of color.

As a result, her outfits from monochromatic marvels by Greta Constantine to a custom peplum confection courtesy of Duro Olowu have made major statements in more ways than one.

“Pretty dresses are, well, everywhere,” Greta Constantine designer Kirk Pickersgill, who created two bold gowns that Davis wore this season, told Page Six Style. “By contrast, dresses that celebrate your strength and empower both you and your tomorrow are far more difficult to come across.”

The designer added that by championing black-owned brands, Davis “has opened the doors for so many of us that have been locked out.”

“There is nothing more beautiful than an individual using their platform to not only look good but also do good,” Pickersgill told us.

Ahead of Sunday’s Oscars, let’s take a look back at Davis’ winning style throughout the season.

Lavie by CK for the Golden Globes

“It’s about feeling good and looking good in your queendom,” Cameroon-born designer Claude Kameni told Page Six Style of the inspiration behind the show-stopping mermaid gown Davis chose for the Golden Globes in February.

Kameni had just one week to complete the puff-sleeved dress from printed African fabric, but the end result, which had her at “a loss for words,” was “definitely worth the all-nighters.”

“We started saying, ‘Viola’s gonna violate this dress,’” the self-taught designer quipped, with a laugh, adding that she hopes to see more A-listers following Davis’ lead when it comes to supporting black fashion talent.

“There’s a whole bunch of talented designers that need their names out there; it shouldn’t just be the same designers all the time,” Kameni said. “Give someone else a spotlight!”

Greta Constantine for the Critics Choice Awards

“After months of panic and fear, we wanted garments that excited us, styles that evoked a sense of hope,” Pickersgill told us of Davis’ ruffle-trimmed cerulean frock. “By producing bright, structural garments, we were looking to bring a smile to the face of both the wearer and the beholder.”

Pickersgill added that seeing the star in her bright blue gown was about “so much more than the fashion. It was about capturing a moment in history that celebrates black creativity in all of its beautiful, challenging, inspiring forms.”

Duro Olowu for the NAACP Image Awards

Appropriately dubbed the “happy dress” by stylist Elizabeth Stewart, this cheery printed peplum frock was a perfect pick for Davis to wear during her double win for “Ma Rainey” and “How To Get Away With Murder” at the NAACP Image Awards in March.

Nigerian-born British designer Olowu has also dressed Michelle Obama, Lupita Nyong’o, and Thandiwe Newton, to name but a few.

Louis Vuitton for the SAG Awards

According to the French fashion house, Davis’ lime green gown took 140 hours of work and 10,000 sequins to complete. The gold and silver embellishments formed a geometric pattern that ran parallel to a pair of zippers down both sides of the strong-shouldered dress, perfectly framing the star’s silhouette at the SAG Awards in early April.

Greta Constantine for the African American Film Critics Association Awards

Davis picked another look from Greta Constantine’s spring 2021 collection this one in ruffled sunny yellow for her last pre-Oscars appearance on the awards circuit when she netted the icon award at the African American Film Critics Association Awards.

“After months in which we had no choice but to take everything seriously, this was one of those garments that would invite you to let your guard down and simply be,” Pickersgill said.

Content courtesy of Page Six & Nairobi fashion hub

 

 

 

Alber Elbaz, Celebrated Fashion Designer, Dies at Age 59 of Coronavirus

Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-born Israeli fashion designer best known for rejuvenating the Lanvin brand, died in France of COVID-19, according to reports. Israeli media has reported that he died of the South African variant of coronavirus, despite being fully vaccinated. He was 59 years old.

The designer, known for his elegant feminine dresses with visible zippers, first worked with Geoffrey Beene in New York, then with the houses of Guy Laroche and Yves Saint-Laurent in France before his 14-year run at Lanvin. He was controversially dismissed from that position in 2015. In late 2019 he formed his own company, AZ Fashion, and the first collection of its line AZ Fashion debuted this January.

In a New York Times profile, he explained his concept of “Anatoknit,” in which ergonomic lines worked to create tension and release for maximum comfort that took seven months of research and development. He was driven to design something stylish that a woman could wear and “eat a big piece of cake.”

While at Lanvin, Elbaz designed creations worn by many celebrities, including BeyoncéLupita Nyong’oPharell WilliamsNatalie Portman, and Harry Styles, as well as Demi MooreNicole KidmanCatherine DeneuveKate MossUma ThurmanJulianne Moore, and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Meryl Streep wore an Elbaz-era Lanvin dress when she accepted her Academy Award in 2012 for The Iron Lady, as did Tilda Swinton when she won for Michael Clayton in 2008. He was also credited as a special costume designer for Portman’s 2015 film A Tale of Love and Darkness.

Elbaz was also known for his good humor, made evident in this quote when asked about the importance of fashion: “Today, I was at Barneys for a couple of hours we had a trunk show. There was this woman I was helping, and she told me at the end of this little rendezvous we had, ‘I am going to be broke, but I am happy.’

I think this is the whole idea of what fashion is going to do today, and I am saying that, when everything is crashing, maybe it’s not a bad idea to invest in a good dress.”

Content courtesy of Vanity Fair & Nairobi fashion hub 

Uganda Celebrity Stylist Abryanz Launches New Fashion Collection as He Celebrates 10 years in Fashion Industry

Fashion guru Bryan Ahumuza aka Abryanz from Uganda has launched a new fashion collection dubbed ‘When No One Is Watching’ to celebrate 10 years in the fashion and style industry.

Abryanz has put a mark on Uganda’s fashion industry especially through his Abryanz Style and Fashion Awards (ASFAs) event which happens annually, and now he has decided to introduce a new fashion line as he celebrates 10 years in the industry.

According to Abryanz, his latest fashion invention has a combination of passion, zeal, and love that he has for creating excellence.

“The rebirth of the brand’s look and feel enhances the apparel space that the brand wishes to reach and is led by the concept of merchandise drops. This will use themes of inclusion and diversity of the community in both an ergonomic and socially inclined mandate,”

“Rather than just a fast fashion brand with no message, this newfound proposition will inspire patriotism of its identity and honest representation of its sense of belonging,” he noted

He adds that this new collection will give a true sense of rigid life in a fast-paced life of youths and a feeling of being young at heart.

“Natural awkwardness of the abnormally joyful youth who cultivate everything alternative and truly influence a shift in culture at every point of advancement.” He said.

This new collection will offer styles in staple essentials ranging from unisex tracksuits, branded t-shirts showing off the new brand logos, caps, underwear for both male and female, and high-end fashion eyewear.

About Abryanz Shop

The year is 2010, and the fashion community in Uganda is at its inaugural stages, and at one of the most significant points in its growth. During the same year, the now renowned Abryanz brand was birthed.

Abryanz’s 11-year span in the business has been quite an eventful, but fulfilling journey that has seen our portfolio grow from fashion, entertainment to the hospitality business, their approach Right from its foundation, The Abryanz brand set out to create a world-class service/product tailored for the modern and fashion-conscious consumer.

Abryanz’s approach is to have class and exquisite taste at the forefront of many of our products, giving our clientele a once-in-a-lifetime and unforgettable experience.

Whether it’s a piece of clothing from our men’s apparel or the hospitality at any of our events, we strive to ensure that our guests/clients receive a world-class product from our brand.

They thrive on our creativity and flexibility, a trait that enables us to cater to any of our clients that come our way.

Content courtesy of  WatchDog Uganda & Nairobi fashion hub 

Pan-African Influenced Lifestyle Brand The Malaika Collective Launches Crowdfunding Campaign on iFundWomen

The demand for a premium apparel brand that celebrates the culture, style, and community of the Pan-African diaspora is tremendous. The Malaika Collective has stepped up to answer the call.

The African diaspora radiates beauty, reality, and undoubted resilience. Not surprisingly, all of these qualities, and more, have made their way into the style of apparel embraced by African people no matter where they live worldwide. In exciting news, a new lifestyle brand is celebrating this magic to help empower and inspire the fashion and community conscious, while also encouraging communication and networking.

Enter The Malaika Collective. The Malaika Collective is a new brand aimed at creating a multicultural home for Black and Brown people from all parts of the African diaspora and their friends and allies alike. As a collective, the brand’s apparel pays homage both to the traditional homelands where the diaspora finds its origins, as well as of the new countries and fresh beginnings that promise so much for the future. Currently, The Malaika Collective is running an exciting crowdfunding campaign on iFundWomen to help bring its first collections to market. All are encouraged to show support.

“The Malaika Collective is a culmination of a five-year venture of innovative storytelling through fashion, media, and education,” commented founder Rita Bunatal. “I found inspiration and empowerment through my Ghanaian and Kenyan heritage. We have seen success with our early, sold-out, t-shirts. And now we look forward to taking things to the next level and having a positive impact on fashion and the world.”

Beyond simply an apparel effort, The Malaika Collective has much larger plans that are emerging to help empower the community. A key part of this is scheduled for Summer 2022 when The Malaika Collective will launch its first flagship location in Brooklyn. This space will double as a retail store, as well as being an immersive, membership-based innovation hub for Black creators and entrepreneurs.

Planned highlights of the sure-to-be exciting location will include interactive educational walls, a kitchen that prepares Afro-fusion-inspired dishes, and a co-working + co-creation space along with a separate event space to host events celebrating the heart, culture, and traditions of both Brooklyn and the pan-African diaspora. The co-creation space will be available to the members of The Malaika Collective community.

The iFundWomen campaign will help make all of this, and much more, a reality.

A number of different perks are available depending on donation size related to the iFundWomen campaign. The iFundWomen Malaika Collective page also goes into great detail about recent activities from the collective and its recent challenges faced, including the last year in the face of Covid-19.

Support the Malaika Collective crowdfunding campaign here. Be sure to visit the official website at https://www.malaikaapparel.com.

Content courtesy of PR Underground & Nairobi fashion hub 

World Fashion is Embracing New Kente Fabric Trend from Africa

A 15-minute exclusive show revealing the 2021 autumn-winter men’s collection from Louis Vuitton. Shown via a video shared on YouTube in particular, the collection is composed of several original styles but some of them drew more attention. These were the designs in Kente, which have very rapidly become the subject of debate on Twitter. On the internet, there are two opposing camps: those who praise the creative genius of Virgil Abloh, the artistic director of men’s fashion at Louis Vuitton, and those who criticize the appropriation of Ghanaian culture by Louis Vuitton.

“Virgil Abloh comes from Ghana and he is also the artistic director of a major clothing brand, so the use of Kente permits him to make reference to his own African origins. I think it’s entirely legitimate to use a fabric that belongs to his culture, to his African identity. I think it’s important that Virgil Abloh is doing this to introduce our culture into this pantheon of international fashion”, explains Aristide Loua, the founder of the Ivorian Kente Gentleman brand.

However, the controversy is nothing compared with the popularity that these items of clothing are enjoying. It leaves room for the real subject: fashion beyond borders. The ultimate accolade for the designer is that one of his items in Kente is being worn by the Afro-American poet and new sensation Amanda Gorman on the cover of the May edition of the very powerful Vogue US.

One year before, Kente was worn by members of the American Congress to denounce racism in American society following the murder of George Floyd by a white policeman. For Afro-Americans, Kente is a symbol of their “African identity”.

But what is Kente and why is this fabric creating such a stir? To understand the symbolic and cultural value of Kente, also known as Kita, you have to go a long way … To travel about 6,000 km from France, to Ghana and Ivory Coast! It’s there that the story of this pagne began among the Akan and Kru people, for whom Kente symbolizes power and nobility.

This is a fabric once worn by the bourgeoisie at grand ceremonies. It’s usually men who weave Kente, mixing several threads of silk and cotton of different colors. Methods of weaving vary from one region to another. Take care when choosing Kente. The colors are significant! Yellow stands for money and wealth, green for prudence and white represents peace and purity.

“Traditional pagnes are seen as those that are only worn at traditional ceremonies or events. It is precisely this assertion that I reject with my brand by offering modern clothing made with our traditional pagnes”, confides Marthe N’Guessan, the founder of the Céchémoi brand.

It’s our identity, it’s our culture and we owe it to ourselves to promote and make the most of it now by offering modern clothing with these traditional fabrics. Céchémoi has existed for almost four years and today I can say that fashion is changing, demand for clothing made with traditional pagnes is strong and we can only be glad about that”.

Kente, an emblem of the local culture?

“We are continuing to promote it since one of our aims is for public administrators and even their agents and official representatives of the country to wear this clothing in service,” explains Marthe N’Guessan. This is a goal that might be realized in Ghana well before Ivory Coast.

In August 2020 the Ghanaian government announced the creation of a Kente handicraft village so as to boost production of this fabric and so as to better serve the local and international markets too. This project, managed by the Royal Kente Weavers and Sellers Association, is still in progress.

An ambitious initiative that recalls the one set up in Burkina Faso in 2019. The Faso Dan Fani (“traditional national woven pagne” in the Dyula language), a traditional Burkinabe pagne, was labelled by the Minister of Commerce and Handicraft. This is one way for the country to exploit this fabric made from 100 percent cotton and at the same time to combat counterfeits and to also better control a market that brings in over 50 billion CFA Francs (or over 76 million Euros) a year.

Content courtesy of Fashion United & Nairobi fashion hub 

Inside Naomi Campbell’s Luxury Villa In Kenya Open Door Architectural Digest

Whenever supermodel Naomi Campbell needs to unplug, she heads to her luxurious, airy villa in Malindi, Kenya

Over the course of her remarkable 35-year career, supermodel Naomi Campbell has blazed trails, stormed catwalks, and graced countless magazine covers. And while most of her legendary peers have long since retired and retreated from the spotlight, at 50 Campbell is as in demand as ever and enjoys a level of visibility models half her age would envy.

She recently closed Fendi’s spring 2021 couture show at the Palais Brongniart in Paris, new artistic director of womenswear Kim Jones’s first for the venerable Roman fashion house. Images of Campbell slowly sauntering down the runway in a sublime silver cape and matching imperial gown set the internet ablaze and left little doubt that she remains one of the most significant models of all time.

In recent years, she’s become the face of Nars (her first beauty campaign ever) and appeared in Burberry and Saint Laurent advertisements, Beyoncé’s beloved “Brown Skin Girl” video, and Amazon’s fashion competition series Making the Cut. To the delight of millennials and Gen Z’ers, she’s also a constant presence on social media, regularly updating her more than 10 million Instagram followers (and nearly 500,000 YouTube subscribers) with archival images from her storied career, one-on-one chats with her famous friends for No Filter With Naomi, and videos from her far-flung travels.

Yes, her schedule is relentless, but work fuels her and continues to bring her joy. “First and foremost, never rest on your laurels, and I still like what I do,” Campbell says when asked about her refusal to slow down. “I use myself as a gateway, a connector to uplift and guide my culture on the right path and the direction that they need to be. This drives me.”

But even icons need rest. And when it’s time to fully unplug, Campbell decamps to her villa in the tranquil seaside town of Malindi, Kenya. Overlooking the Indian Ocean, her idyllic retreat is the epitome of indoor-outdoor living and for more than 20 years has served as her chosen haven from the breakneck pace of her native London and adopted New York City. Bathed in natural light and brimming with warm earth tones, the wide-open expanse is an ode to laid-back opulence. “It’s a very calming place,” she says. “You don’t really want to be on the phone. You’re not trying to find a television. You just want to read and be with yourself. It’s nice to just have the silence and the crickets.”

Campbell first visited Malindi in the mid-1990s and returned again a few years later with a longtime friend, the owner of this Kenyan luxury resort, which houses a handful of private residences, including Campbell’s getaway. Just over an hour’s flight from Kenya’s capital city, Nairobi, Malindi has long been a favorite of the Italian jet set. “All the locals speak Italian,” Campbell shares. “It’s like Little Italy in East Africa.”

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The saltwater pool that extends outdoors from the center of her living room is ideal for a quick morning dip. When the model is in the mood to entertain, twin voile-curtained pergolas serve as the perfect space for family-style dinners. The vaulted cathedral ceilings and makuti thatched roof, made from the sun-dried leaves of the coconut palm, are an awe-inspiring favorite of Campbell’s. Makuti roofs, she explains, have been a staple in East Africa for centuries and are hand-sewn in an intricate layering process.

“We’ve had this one for at least 12 years, and it’s still in good form,” she says proudly. “Because of the air, wind, and sea salt, things can break down very quickly here, but it’s held up so well, and it’s just like a piece of art in itself.” The oversized Latika lanterns that hang from the rafters hail from Morocco and Egypt and are as dazzling as they are grand. Campbell enjoys furniture shopping throughout Africa but has found great success in Marrakech and Cairo (like Murano, Italy, the ancient Egyptian city is renowned for its handblown glass). Senegal, she adds, is another must-visit when she’s on the hunt for one-of-a-kind treasures. “Senegal has amazing furniture,” she gushes. “Every time I go, I buy furniture, and I just collect it and store it away.”

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For remarkable woodwork, Campbell doesn’t have to travel far. “A lot of the wood furniture that we have in the house is made in Malindi,” she says. “In fact, we used to have a workshop at the back of the house.” The hand-carved wooden doors depicting two men dancing in traditional ceremonial dress were designed by Armando Tanzini, an award-winning artist who has lived and worked in Malindi for many years. They’re decades old and have proved to be reliable conversation starters. Tucked around the house are more works by Tanzini, including several large-scale tableau maps of Africa.

Some of Campbell’s fondest memories are tied to Kenya: lunches on sandbanks in the middle of the Indian Ocean; camping with the nomadic Samburu tribe; summer safari outings to watch the annual Great Migration. “It’s wonderful to go in July,” she advises. “All the animals are crossing over from Kenya to Tanzania, and you see everything. It’s incredible. It’s like seeing National Geographic come to life right in front of your face.”

These days Campbell, who was recently appointed Kenya’s official tourism ambassador, says she’s committed to using her considerable platform to champion all of Africa’s 54 countries. “I love all of the African continents; there isn’t one country I love more than another, and I want that to be clear,” she declares. “Each place in Africa has something magical about it.”

Writen By Lola Ogunnaike
Photography by Khadija Farah
Styled by Edward Ngera

Content courtesy of Architectural Digest & Nairobi fashion hub 

Fabric and Flux, What’s next for Thebe Magugu?

The 2019 LVMH Prize winner Thebe Magugu is not one to rest on his laurels. For his latest collection, experimental textile collaborations might just see him continue his groundbreaking streak.

When fashion designer Thebe Magugu started working on the central print for his autumn/winter 2021 collection, Alchemy, the question “what’s next?” was on his mind, and he called on recently initiated sangoma and fashion stylist Noentla Khumalo to throw the bones, as it were, in search of the answer. “She came to the studio and she laid out her mat and she threw her bones with the question, ‘what’s next?’ I think we’re all very curious about what’s next; I think things have been so much in flux that we’re all actually just yearning for a bit more clarity,” explains Magugu.

Once she had thrown the bones, shells, crystals, and other objects, Magugu asked her not to tell him the answer: “I told her I would rather not know, I’d rather let it be up to the wearer if that makes sense. I want whoever purchases this garment… I want them to sort of draw that conclusion on their own just from the image and the feeling that they get from the garment.”

Instead, the designer photographed the objects the sangoma threw on the mat and got to work playing around with the elements, making some bigger, some smaller, and tweaking the colors. “I’m [interested] in the changing [attitudes] towards African spirituality, and the idea of ukuthwasa,” says Magugu, referring to the process through which sangomas receive their calling and training.

“Among the youth, it wasn’t really something that was spoken about like it was this strange sort of secret shame; but I feel like the stigma around ukuthwasa is sort of breaking down as people embrace it a bit more. And I knew I wanted to have a headlining print that sort of spoke to this idea. And if I’m doing African spirituality, I needed to collaborate with traditional healers, a sangoma, to authentically contribute to the collection,” he explains.

This infusion of culture, a South African narrative, and an innovative approach to textiles is a big part of what led the designer to win the LVMH prize in 2019 over thousands of young designers from across the globe, and becoming the first entrant from Africa to win the prize, as well as launching his career to international acclaim and media coverage by some of the most respected fashion media publications.

“I still struggle to speak about it a lot of the time, because of the way my life has been… I feel like a lot of the things that are happening weren’t meant for me, if that makes sense. Because there was just so much lack in terms of resources and opportunity. My mom worked incredibly hard, but even so… Over the years, you sort of taking away the big dream and you start thinking about the practical…

The past two years have almost been like an extreme rejection of that, and it took a bit of time to get used to it. It’s all these sorts of things that I dreamt of as a teenager, but as I grew up, I started thinking that’s obviously not meant for me. The paradigm shift to change that mentality has actually been weird and sort of challenging. I am just so… I’m so thankful,” says Magugu.

Indeed, the past couple of years have brought him moments young designers around the world can only dream of. Most recently, a dress from one of his previous collections was acquired by the Met for its permanent collection. “There’s also dissociation, and I find that I feel it sometimes, like when I got the email from the Met or when I got an email from Vogue editor-in-chief  Anna Wintour, it’s almost as if this is happening to someone else and I’m responding for them. It’s crazy, but that’s exactly what it is. But also, that being said, I appreciate that sort of dissonance because I think it’s so dangerous when people overly tie the success of their business or brand or company to their actual identity,” reflects Magugu.

The Thebe Magugu brand now gets to show at Paris Fashion Week on the official schedule, and his collections are sold at stockists around the world including China, Nigeria, Japan, New York, Italy, Spain, London, and France. However, even as his business grows, Magugu says he is particularly proud to find that when it comes to online sales, the brand has significantly grown its South African following: “The wholesale side of my business is more international facing, but my online store is approximately 85% local, which is incredible, it’s really incredible.”

The collaborative print with Noentla is one of six looks from the Alchemy collection that the designer has entered into yet another prestigious fashion design competition, the International Woolmark Prize. He has already made it to the group of the top-six finalists, and the collection is being judged by supermodel Naomi Campbell and other leading names in global fashion media. Inputting together the other looks, he has continued to collaborate with various artisans in innovative ways.

One such collaboration included burying wool underground for a few weeks. Says Magugu: “I worked with an eco-textile maker in Ladysmith, her name is Larisa Don. For some strange reason, I am quite a big fan of corrugated iron as a motif. I keep on going back to the idea of corrugated iron. In past collections, I’ve had corrugated iron as a print, but with this one, we wanted to revisit it in a more experimental way.

We took white merino wool and sandwiched it between two sheets of corrugated iron, and then we sort of [buried it underground] and let that rust over a few weeks. Then we uncovered, washed, and treated it so that it’s a wearable fabric and comfortable. It came out so beautiful, in all these oranges and browns.”

For another print, Magugu and Don took the imphepho plant, largely believed to chase away bad spirits and to facilitate communication with one’s ancestors, as well as cannabis leaves and “flower-pounded” them onto textiles, a technique of using heat, pressure, and chemicals to transfer the color and shape of the flowers directly onto fabric. For another, he worked with a company in the Netherlands to translate African scarification practices onto textile as a proverb written in Braille.

“It was for the proverb that says, ‘what you do for your ancestors, your children will do unto you. I’ve always loved that quote; so the scarification on the back of the jacket also doubles as Braille for that,” says Magugu. For yet another textile development he collaborated with the revered Japanese textile maker Adachi San, “he made the fabric by hand… he does it on a loom; it’s this black wool fabric with white pinstripes peppered with these rayon pom poms onto the surface of the fabric.”

As for “what’s next?”, the designer is happy not knowing what Noentla divined from the bones. With his team and collaborators, he is putting in the work and creating the future; building the business, as well as finalizing new textile developments that will be part of the Alchemy collection, which will soon be judged for the Woolmark Prize, which, if he wins, will be another first for South African fashion design. DM/ML

Content courtesy of Daily Maverick & Nairobi fashion hub  

 

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