Wednesday 3rd of June 2026

Nairobi, Kenya

Pan-African Influenced Lifestyle Brand The Malaika Collective Launches Crowdfunding Campaign on iFundWomen

The demand for a premium apparel brand that celebrates the culture, style, and community of the Pan-African diaspora is tremendous. The Malaika Collective has stepped up to answer the call.

The African diaspora radiates beauty, reality, and undoubted resilience. Not surprisingly, all of these qualities, and more, have made their way into the style of apparel embraced by African people no matter where they live worldwide. In exciting news, a new lifestyle brand is celebrating this magic to help empower and inspire the fashion and community conscious, while also encouraging communication and networking.

Enter The Malaika Collective. The Malaika Collective is a new brand aimed at creating a multicultural home for Black and Brown people from all parts of the African diaspora and their friends and allies alike. As a collective, the brand’s apparel pays homage both to the traditional homelands where the diaspora finds its origins, as well as of the new countries and fresh beginnings that promise so much for the future. Currently, The Malaika Collective is running an exciting crowdfunding campaign on iFundWomen to help bring its first collections to market. All are encouraged to show support.

“The Malaika Collective is a culmination of a five-year venture of innovative storytelling through fashion, media, and education,” commented founder Rita Bunatal. “I found inspiration and empowerment through my Ghanaian and Kenyan heritage. We have seen success with our early, sold-out, t-shirts. And now we look forward to taking things to the next level and having a positive impact on fashion and the world.”

Beyond simply an apparel effort, The Malaika Collective has much larger plans that are emerging to help empower the community. A key part of this is scheduled for Summer 2022 when The Malaika Collective will launch its first flagship location in Brooklyn. This space will double as a retail store, as well as being an immersive, membership-based innovation hub for Black creators and entrepreneurs.

Planned highlights of the sure-to-be exciting location will include interactive educational walls, a kitchen that prepares Afro-fusion-inspired dishes, and a co-working + co-creation space along with a separate event space to host events celebrating the heart, culture, and traditions of both Brooklyn and the pan-African diaspora. The co-creation space will be available to the members of The Malaika Collective community.

The iFundWomen campaign will help make all of this, and much more, a reality.

A number of different perks are available depending on donation size related to the iFundWomen campaign. The iFundWomen Malaika Collective page also goes into great detail about recent activities from the collective and its recent challenges faced, including the last year in the face of Covid-19.

Support the Malaika Collective crowdfunding campaign here. Be sure to visit the official website at https://www.malaikaapparel.com.

Content courtesy of PR Underground & Nairobi fashion hub 

World Fashion is Embracing New Kente Fabric Trend from Africa

A 15-minute exclusive show revealing the 2021 autumn-winter men’s collection from Louis Vuitton. Shown via a video shared on YouTube in particular, the collection is composed of several original styles but some of them drew more attention. These were the designs in Kente, which have very rapidly become the subject of debate on Twitter. On the internet, there are two opposing camps: those who praise the creative genius of Virgil Abloh, the artistic director of men’s fashion at Louis Vuitton, and those who criticize the appropriation of Ghanaian culture by Louis Vuitton.

“Virgil Abloh comes from Ghana and he is also the artistic director of a major clothing brand, so the use of Kente permits him to make reference to his own African origins. I think it’s entirely legitimate to use a fabric that belongs to his culture, to his African identity. I think it’s important that Virgil Abloh is doing this to introduce our culture into this pantheon of international fashion”, explains Aristide Loua, the founder of the Ivorian Kente Gentleman brand.

However, the controversy is nothing compared with the popularity that these items of clothing are enjoying. It leaves room for the real subject: fashion beyond borders. The ultimate accolade for the designer is that one of his items in Kente is being worn by the Afro-American poet and new sensation Amanda Gorman on the cover of the May edition of the very powerful Vogue US.

One year before, Kente was worn by members of the American Congress to denounce racism in American society following the murder of George Floyd by a white policeman. For Afro-Americans, Kente is a symbol of their “African identity”.

But what is Kente and why is this fabric creating such a stir? To understand the symbolic and cultural value of Kente, also known as Kita, you have to go a long way … To travel about 6,000 km from France, to Ghana and Ivory Coast! It’s there that the story of this pagne began among the Akan and Kru people, for whom Kente symbolizes power and nobility.

This is a fabric once worn by the bourgeoisie at grand ceremonies. It’s usually men who weave Kente, mixing several threads of silk and cotton of different colors. Methods of weaving vary from one region to another. Take care when choosing Kente. The colors are significant! Yellow stands for money and wealth, green for prudence and white represents peace and purity.

“Traditional pagnes are seen as those that are only worn at traditional ceremonies or events. It is precisely this assertion that I reject with my brand by offering modern clothing made with our traditional pagnes”, confides Marthe N’Guessan, the founder of the Céchémoi brand.

It’s our identity, it’s our culture and we owe it to ourselves to promote and make the most of it now by offering modern clothing with these traditional fabrics. Céchémoi has existed for almost four years and today I can say that fashion is changing, demand for clothing made with traditional pagnes is strong and we can only be glad about that”.

Kente, an emblem of the local culture?

“We are continuing to promote it since one of our aims is for public administrators and even their agents and official representatives of the country to wear this clothing in service,” explains Marthe N’Guessan. This is a goal that might be realized in Ghana well before Ivory Coast.

In August 2020 the Ghanaian government announced the creation of a Kente handicraft village so as to boost production of this fabric and so as to better serve the local and international markets too. This project, managed by the Royal Kente Weavers and Sellers Association, is still in progress.

An ambitious initiative that recalls the one set up in Burkina Faso in 2019. The Faso Dan Fani (“traditional national woven pagne” in the Dyula language), a traditional Burkinabe pagne, was labelled by the Minister of Commerce and Handicraft. This is one way for the country to exploit this fabric made from 100 percent cotton and at the same time to combat counterfeits and to also better control a market that brings in over 50 billion CFA Francs (or over 76 million Euros) a year.

Content courtesy of Fashion United & Nairobi fashion hub 

Fabric and Flux, What’s next for Thebe Magugu?

The 2019 LVMH Prize winner Thebe Magugu is not one to rest on his laurels. For his latest collection, experimental textile collaborations might just see him continue his groundbreaking streak.

When fashion designer Thebe Magugu started working on the central print for his autumn/winter 2021 collection, Alchemy, the question “what’s next?” was on his mind, and he called on recently initiated sangoma and fashion stylist Noentla Khumalo to throw the bones, as it were, in search of the answer. “She came to the studio and she laid out her mat and she threw her bones with the question, ‘what’s next?’ I think we’re all very curious about what’s next; I think things have been so much in flux that we’re all actually just yearning for a bit more clarity,” explains Magugu.

Once she had thrown the bones, shells, crystals, and other objects, Magugu asked her not to tell him the answer: “I told her I would rather not know, I’d rather let it be up to the wearer if that makes sense. I want whoever purchases this garment… I want them to sort of draw that conclusion on their own just from the image and the feeling that they get from the garment.”

Instead, the designer photographed the objects the sangoma threw on the mat and got to work playing around with the elements, making some bigger, some smaller, and tweaking the colors. “I’m [interested] in the changing [attitudes] towards African spirituality, and the idea of ukuthwasa,” says Magugu, referring to the process through which sangomas receive their calling and training.

“Among the youth, it wasn’t really something that was spoken about like it was this strange sort of secret shame; but I feel like the stigma around ukuthwasa is sort of breaking down as people embrace it a bit more. And I knew I wanted to have a headlining print that sort of spoke to this idea. And if I’m doing African spirituality, I needed to collaborate with traditional healers, a sangoma, to authentically contribute to the collection,” he explains.

This infusion of culture, a South African narrative, and an innovative approach to textiles is a big part of what led the designer to win the LVMH prize in 2019 over thousands of young designers from across the globe, and becoming the first entrant from Africa to win the prize, as well as launching his career to international acclaim and media coverage by some of the most respected fashion media publications.

“I still struggle to speak about it a lot of the time, because of the way my life has been… I feel like a lot of the things that are happening weren’t meant for me, if that makes sense. Because there was just so much lack in terms of resources and opportunity. My mom worked incredibly hard, but even so… Over the years, you sort of taking away the big dream and you start thinking about the practical…

The past two years have almost been like an extreme rejection of that, and it took a bit of time to get used to it. It’s all these sorts of things that I dreamt of as a teenager, but as I grew up, I started thinking that’s obviously not meant for me. The paradigm shift to change that mentality has actually been weird and sort of challenging. I am just so… I’m so thankful,” says Magugu.

Indeed, the past couple of years have brought him moments young designers around the world can only dream of. Most recently, a dress from one of his previous collections was acquired by the Met for its permanent collection. “There’s also dissociation, and I find that I feel it sometimes, like when I got the email from the Met or when I got an email from Vogue editor-in-chief  Anna Wintour, it’s almost as if this is happening to someone else and I’m responding for them. It’s crazy, but that’s exactly what it is. But also, that being said, I appreciate that sort of dissonance because I think it’s so dangerous when people overly tie the success of their business or brand or company to their actual identity,” reflects Magugu.

The Thebe Magugu brand now gets to show at Paris Fashion Week on the official schedule, and his collections are sold at stockists around the world including China, Nigeria, Japan, New York, Italy, Spain, London, and France. However, even as his business grows, Magugu says he is particularly proud to find that when it comes to online sales, the brand has significantly grown its South African following: “The wholesale side of my business is more international facing, but my online store is approximately 85% local, which is incredible, it’s really incredible.”

The collaborative print with Noentla is one of six looks from the Alchemy collection that the designer has entered into yet another prestigious fashion design competition, the International Woolmark Prize. He has already made it to the group of the top-six finalists, and the collection is being judged by supermodel Naomi Campbell and other leading names in global fashion media. Inputting together the other looks, he has continued to collaborate with various artisans in innovative ways.

One such collaboration included burying wool underground for a few weeks. Says Magugu: “I worked with an eco-textile maker in Ladysmith, her name is Larisa Don. For some strange reason, I am quite a big fan of corrugated iron as a motif. I keep on going back to the idea of corrugated iron. In past collections, I’ve had corrugated iron as a print, but with this one, we wanted to revisit it in a more experimental way.

We took white merino wool and sandwiched it between two sheets of corrugated iron, and then we sort of [buried it underground] and let that rust over a few weeks. Then we uncovered, washed, and treated it so that it’s a wearable fabric and comfortable. It came out so beautiful, in all these oranges and browns.”

For another print, Magugu and Don took the imphepho plant, largely believed to chase away bad spirits and to facilitate communication with one’s ancestors, as well as cannabis leaves and “flower-pounded” them onto textiles, a technique of using heat, pressure, and chemicals to transfer the color and shape of the flowers directly onto fabric. For another, he worked with a company in the Netherlands to translate African scarification practices onto textile as a proverb written in Braille.

“It was for the proverb that says, ‘what you do for your ancestors, your children will do unto you. I’ve always loved that quote; so the scarification on the back of the jacket also doubles as Braille for that,” says Magugu. For yet another textile development he collaborated with the revered Japanese textile maker Adachi San, “he made the fabric by hand… he does it on a loom; it’s this black wool fabric with white pinstripes peppered with these rayon pom poms onto the surface of the fabric.”

As for “what’s next?”, the designer is happy not knowing what Noentla divined from the bones. With his team and collaborators, he is putting in the work and creating the future; building the business, as well as finalizing new textile developments that will be part of the Alchemy collection, which will soon be judged for the Woolmark Prize, which, if he wins, will be another first for South African fashion design. DM/ML

Content courtesy of Daily Maverick & Nairobi fashion hub  

 

LVMH Prize Semifinalists Herald New Era of ‘Expansive Expression’

PARIS  Held online for the first time due to the coronavirus pandemic, the LVMH Prize showroom provided a tantalizing glimpse of what’s in store once the world returns to normal, and when it comes to fashion, it seems that anything goes.

Working under the toughest economic conditions in recent industry memory, this year’s 20 semifinalists presented eclectic collections rooted in their personal culture and identity. The ban on international travel only served to highlight the geographic diversity of the participants, including the first Arab woman to make the shortlist.

“This year, there was a lot of color and knitwear. Two or three years ago, the big story was streetwear. That’s less the case now. There is a growing trend for gender-fluid fashion, and sustainability remains a core concern,” said Delphine Arnault, second-in-command at Louis Vuitton and a key talent scout at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the parent company of brands including Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Fendi.

“It really reflects the state of fashion at any given time. It’s like a snapshot of society,” she added.

That image has never felt more fractured. American designer Christopher John Rogers, known for dressing celebrities like Cardi B, Rihanna, and Lizzo in his colorful creations on the red carpet as well as Vice President Kamala Harris at the Biden inauguration described the era of fashion as one of “expansive expression” in his presentation at the digital showroom, which ran from April 6 to 11.

“I want to be a part of this league of talent that is breaking down this traditional aesthetic hierarchy of what we expect luxury clothes to look like,” he told WWD in a Zoom interview from New York City.

“We’re in an era where someone who’s doing this really beautiful double-felted cashmere coat in gray that work can be just as chic as this rainbow intarsia knit fantasy, you know? It’s kind of the same thing. It just depends on what your preference is, and it doesn’t have to be on some scale. That’s something I really believe in, and I think that this year’s crop of semifinalists definitely are proof of that,” he added.

Like many emerging designers, he’s gearing up for an era of freedom once the COVID-19 crisis subsides.

“Everyone’s kind of anticipating another Roaring Twenties moment where everyone’s craving to get out, craving to just let loose and not really care too much about everyone else’s opinions about how they look,” he said. “Everyone’s going to want to present themselves differently, but I think the one universal vibe is just going to be, like, ‘insanity.’”

London-based designer Alicia Robinson, whose AGR label is known for rainbow-hued knitwear and patchwork cargo pants, echoed the sentiment.

“The new era of fashion has definitely changed, we no longer have to follow those traditional paths. You can create your own platform. You can talk to your consumers directly and that’s all due to technology,” she said in her filmed presentation.

In the meantime, designers are dealing with hurdles ranging from closed stores to presenting their collections to buyers online. While the physical LVMH Prize showroom, traditionally staged during Paris Fashion Week in early March, normally gives them instant access to a wide range of industry luminaries over a 24-hour period, there was no such rush of adrenaline this time around.

“It’s really strange, because this whole prize is centered around something that’s quite physical, which is clothes, and we’re doing it all digitally,” said Cynthia Merhej, the Lebanese designer behind the Renaissance Renaissance label. “I think they did a really great job with the platform. It looks amazing.”

Cerebral yet sensual, her designs are rooted in rebellion against Lebanon’s patriarchal society with not a sequin in sight. “The pieces are not meant to be Instagram pieces. That’s not the philosophy behind it at all, so they really need to be seen and touched,” she argued.

Arnault said the showroom event was pushed back by a month to give organizers time to create an enhanced site, with content including videos and 360-degree views of key outfits. For the first time, members of the public are being asked to select their favorite, with 10,000 votes registered by midday on Friday.

“It’s always interesting to touch the fabrics, see the quality of the products and the creativity of the cuts. That’s not as easy to do online,” the executive noted. “Our teams have done a tremendous job to try to render as faithfully as possible a meeting with the designer.”

It represents a digital leap for the event. “It gives them visibility, and for the next editions, it will allow us to combine, hopefully, a physical event with this existing digital platform that we can build on in the future. It’s also great for the public, so it will give us the best of both worlds,” Arnault said.

LVMH hopes designers will be able to physically attend its prize-giving ceremony, tentatively scheduled for September. Last year, it divided the 300,000-euro prize money between the eight finalists, in addition to creating a solidarity fund for previous winners.

“We hope it will be a physical event, but if that’s not possible, we will rethink the format of the prize. We may do something similar to last year, or we might have a new idea. But right now, we are very much hoping to have a live final,” Arnault said.

Even experienced remotely, being short-listed for a prize is a lifeline for many of the smaller designers selected. Merhej, whose label is stocked exclusively at Net-a-porter, described it as “a huge ray of sunshine” after a year marked by a deep economic crisis, successive lockdowns, and a devastating explosion in Beirut in August.

“I know it’s really meaningful for everyone in Lebanon, because we really need a win, in a way. We need something positive to look forward to,” she said. “Since last year, we’ve been going through what I can only call a nightmare mixed with hell.”

As the first Arab woman to make the cut since the prize was launched in 2015, she hopes to open the way for other Middle Eastern designers and change preconceptions about her culture.

“We feel others are telling our stories in ways that don’t really feel familiar to us, or we keep being pigeon-holed into certain narratives,” she explained. “Lebanon means nice food, beach, Botox, embellished gowns, everything over-the-top and crazy, but that’s not the Lebanon I personally know. Yeah, I think that exists, but there’s also a huge chunk of us that aren’t like that.”

Adeju Thompson, the Nigeria-born founder of the Lagos Space Programme, similarly wants to challenge the image of African fashion. A nonbinary, queer, Yoruba, and Black designer, who goes by the pronouns they/them, their multilayered creations stand out in a city known for its status dressing.

“Even though a lot of what I do is informed by my identity as an African, I’m more than that. I’m a global designer,” said Thompson, who cites designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo as early influences. “In my work, that’s something that I’m always hyper-aware of, you know  just trying to break up misconceptions about what design coming from the continent looks like.”

There’s a strong political dimension to it, too. In 2019, Thompson was assaulted by the Special Anti-Robbery Squad, a notorious unit of the Nigerian police with a long record of abuses. “I was detained for five hours because of how I dressed,” they recalled.

“I think it was in that moment when I started to see Lagos Space Programme and the work I do as a form of protest,” Thompson said. “When I’m exploring my identity as a queer person, in the West, this is normal, and I guess so many designers could do this. Where I come from, I could get into trouble. For me, it’s so important that I speak up for myself.”

Sold exclusively at the Lagos concept store Alara, the label has caught the attention of overseas buyers following its recent presentation during Milan Fashion Week, but Thompson is taking it slow. “I’ve never been someone who is very comfortable with the limelight. I don’t want to be a celebrity designer. I am very happy to be not seen, and for my work to speak for itself,” they said.

Chinese designer Shuting Qiu, another cross-cultural creative, believes the LVMH Prize has the potential to break down barriers. Born in Hangzhou, she left at 19 to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium.

“If I win, for the cultural communication it really helps because I’m contemporary Chinese: I have my Asian culture, but I also understand European culture,” she said, noting that China has yet to launch a breakthrough designer on the international stage.

“Chinese design is getting better and better, so I really can help. I can do something in my generation,” Qiu mused. “I really feel like I have a responsibility to do this. It’s also my dream  it’s pushing me to really work hard to go forward.”

Used to traveling across the world to gather inspiration, she has refocused her attention on Chinese destinations and is also sourcing more fabrics domestically, like the silk jacquards that she likes to pair with clashing prints and colorful embroideries.

“I think people want to wear something more colorful, cheerful and easy more casual maybe, something light,” she said of the mood one year into the pandemic.

“I never want to see a pair of jeans again,” offered Merhej, noting that Lebanese women are experts at using fashion to beat the blues. ”Life there is quite difficult, so the only thing we have that cheers us up, and makes us feel good and better about our reality, in a way, is getting dressed up.”

The class of 2021 could well usher in a new era of individuality in fashion. “Christian Dior created his house in 1947 after World War II. After very challenging periods, you always see a surge in creativity. I’m curious to see what will come out of this pandemic,” Arnault said.

Content courtesy of WWD & Nairobi fashion hub 

Hollywood’s Afrofuturism Role of African Heritage Fashion in Film 

She is Hollywood’s queen of Afrofuturist costumes: For 40 years, designer Ruth E. Carter has been developing fashion for major motion pictures, including “Black Panther.”

It is the most commercially successful Afrofuturistic US work to date: the Marvel blockbuster Black Panther was nominated for an Oscar in seven categories in 2019, ultimately winning three of the awards including for best picture and best costume design.

The Oscar-winning designer of the film’s groundbreaking costumes was Ruth E. Carter.

Carter, who was born on April 10, 1960, in Springfield, Massachusetts, had originally planned to pursue a completely different career path: She wanted to become an actress.

But it was when she started helping out in the costume department of her student theater group at Hampton University that she found a new calling. So after graduating from university, she trained as a costume designer at the Santa Fe Opera in New Mexico, subsequently moving to Los Angeles.

For more than 40 years now, Ruth E. Carter has been designing costumes for independent films and Hollywood blockbusters alike, working with Stephen Spielberg, Denzel Washington, and Samuel L. Jackson, among many others.

Using fashion to communicate African heritage

The outfits of the Black Panther protagonists are currently on show at the SCAD FASH Museum Fashion + Film in Atlanta, which runs until September 2021.

The 61-year-old Carter says she purposefully designs Afrofuturist costumes to convey messages on Black identities. For her, Afrofuturism means “to unite technology with imagination and self-expression to advance a philosophy for Black Americans, Africans, and Indigenous People that allows them to believe and create entirely without the barriers of slavery and colonialism.”

This approach to Afrofuturism is still relatively young and somewhat utopian, explains Natalie Zacek, a lecturer in US history and culture at the University of Manchester.

With Afrofuturism existing for over 25 years now, there are many different definitions of what image of African identities it is designed to convey: “Afrofuturism is often about imagining a world where the transatlantic slave trade has never taken place, without the European colonization of the African continent. What would have become of African cultures and societies then, artists wonder?” Zacek explains.

Afrofuturism between Hollywood and Nollywood

These visions of African identities, however, often differ between artists from the United States and those on the African continent: For decades, African authors have been writing science fiction stories, most of which are classically set in outer space or in a futuristic city. In recent years, the theme of the climate crisis has also been added into that fold.

But American and British storytellers often still focus on the past: “For artists in the US and the UK, the experience of the slave trade is always in the foreground of the diaspora experience,” Natalie Zacek told DW. The continent of Africa, she says, as a place of ancestors, is an almost mythically charged place from the past for many People of Color who live in the West. This is different, she says, for African artists, who live in Ghana or Nigeria, for example.

While African filmmakers are confidently venturing into genres like science fiction, they can often only dream of having the kinds of budgets that Hollywood productions do.

“The only film funding an African filmmaker can get usually comes from Europe, and European producers usually choose the kind of material that they think will do well at film festivals. That is content that deals with supposedly African issues like AIDS, genocide, the climate crisis and famine,” author and filmmaker Dilman Dila wrote in the international science fiction and fantasy magazine Mithila Review in 2017.

At that time, his science fiction film Her Broken Shadow hit the silver screens of Africa but was aesthetically more reminiscent of Blade Runner than of Black Panther.

Changing perceptions through art and design

In contrast to the films produced by African directors such as Dilman Dila or Jean-Pierre Bekolo, Black Panther grew into a global success, proving to Hollywood that a film in which hardly any white actors appear can make it big at the box office.

Carter was among the artists who contributed to the global success of the blockbuster. Throughout her career as a costume designer, she has primarily focused on the African-American experience, as the Atlanta exhibition makes clear, featuring 60 designs of her costumes over the decades.

Film director Stephen Spielberg hired her to design costumes for American slaves and slaveholders in the 19th century, for his blockbuster movie Amistad.

Spike Lee had her dress as an African-American action hero, and in Selma, she designed the look of civil rights icon Martin Luther King.

For Black Panther, Carter says she set out to introduce a radical change of perspective to the American public: “I think people will be able to contextualize and appreciate African art very differently now. That’s what we’ve done: We’ve appreciated it, we’ve reimagined it, we’ve evolved it and taken it to a different place.”

Content courtesy of Dw & Nairobi fashion hub 

Nike and MSCHF Settle 2-Week-Old Lawsuit Over Allegedly Infringing “Satan Shoes”

Less than two weeks after Nike filed a trademark lawsuit against MSCHF over its allegedly infringing Satan Shoes, the two parties have settled their differences out of court. The settlement comes just days after a New York federal court determined that “Nike has shown a likelihood of success on at least some of its claims,” stating that Nike specifically showed that “MSCHF’s actions are likely to confuse, and likely are confusing, consumers about the origin, sponsorship, or approval of MSCHF’s goods,” and are “likely to dilute and tarnish Nike’s marks,” and as a result, issued a temporary restraining order barring MSCHF from fulfilling any orders for the Satan Shoes and from using Nike’s name or Swoosh marks on any confusingly similar products or in any advertising.

Nike confirmed the settlement on Thursday, as first reported by Yahoo, and set the record straight in a statement, asserting that “MSCHF altered these shoes without Nike’s authorization, [and] Nike had nothing to do with” the controversial Satan Shoes that were modified by MSCHF, which injected the soles with red ink and a single drop of human blood, or the previously-dropped Jesus Shoes.

Counsel for MSCHF Debevoise’s David Bernstein similarly spoke to the settlement on Thursday, saying that it is “the best way to allow MSCHF to put this lawsuit behind it so that it could dedicate its time to new artistic and expressive projects,” noting that MSCHF “had already achieved its artistic purpose,” which was to “comment on the absurdity of the collaboration culture practiced by some brands.”  (MSCHF already has another non-sneaker drop lined up for this month).

While the terms of the settlement will likely be confidential, a representative for Nike told Yahoo’s Reggie Wade that it has “asked MSCHF to initiate a voluntary recall to buy back any Satan Shoes and Jesus Shoes for their original retail prices, in order to remove them from circulation.” According to Nike, “If any purchasers were confused, or if they otherwise want to return their shoes, they may do so for a full refund.”

As for any “purchasers who choose not to return their shoes and later encounter a product issue, defect, or health concern should contact MSCHF, not Nike,” a nod to the argument that the sportswear giant made in its complaint that “making changes to the midsole may pose safety risks for consumers.”

Nike first filed suit against MSCHF on March 29, alleging that the 666 pairs of “Satan Shoes” that the Brooklyn, New York-based “art collective” dropped ran afoul of federal trademark law,” and caused widespread consumer backlash in the process, thereby, causing damage to the Nike brand. “Nike has not and does not approve or authorize MSCHF’s customized Satan Shoes,” the Beaverton-based behemoth asserted in its complaint, claiming that while MSCHF may have acquired authentic Nike sneakers, its customization of the sneakers has resulted in shoes that “are not genuine Nike products.”

https://twitter.com/TheFashionLaw/status/1380509718347677701?s=20

In other words, the MSCHF sneakers may bear Nike’s Swoosh, but MSCHF “has customized them in such a manner that they constitute new, unauthorized products,” thereby, running afoul of federal trademark law by advertising and selling them without Nike’s authorization.

“A genuine Nike Air Max 97 shoe does not contain any of [the] customized features” added by MSCHF, Nike asserted in its complaint, and yet, “despite these drastic alterations,” the $1,018 Satan Shoes “still prominently display the Nike Swoosh logo both at the top of the tongue and along the side of the shoes.”

MSCHF responded to the suit by shopping all but one of the pairs of Satan Shoes and arguing in an opposition to Nike’s quest for a temporary restraining order that its modified sneakers are entitled to protection under the First Amendment as satire. Judge Eric Komitee shot down MSCHF’s argument, stating in this April 1 order that while “First Amendment rights of artistic expression are paramount, and MSCHF will have a full opportunity to pursue this affirmative defense at the preliminary injunction stage, if it chooses,” based on the record, MSCHF had not yet met the relevant burden of proof to warrant such protection.

The swiftly settled case raised a number of interesting and timely issues, including ones that center on the legality of marketing and selling originally authentic, trademark-bearing goods that have been modified, which has been a theme in a number of recent cases, as “bootleg” products and customized goods continue to find favor among consumers, much to the displeasure of the targeted brands.

At the same time, the Satan Shoes-specific legal spat – which followed from MSCHF’s 2019 release of holy-water infused “Jesus Shoes,” footwear that was met with far less fury from the consuming public than their satanic counterpart – also sheds light on the oft-difficult strategic balance that brands are forced to consider when it comes to enforcing their trademark rights. Deciding how to address infringement and/or dilution – and more specifically, determining which instances merit legal action and which are maybe best left to die down on their own without the added publicity of a lawsuit – is an enduring issue for brands.

As many brands have learned, the well-established duties of a trademark holder to police unauthorized uses of its mark do not always go over well within the public sphere. A track record of infringement litigation carried out by big-name brands could culminate in a media-driven reputation of being a “bully,” as the likes of Louis Vuitton, Adidas, and Levi’s have all learned. Simultaneously, a strongly-worded letter or filing (even if warranted) are hardly limited in their reach to the receiving party or a court of law, and instead, could end up making headlines or in this case, appear on the front of a run of t-shirts – and thus, perpetuate any alleged harm already at play.

While issues of infringement and/or dilution, and certainly, claims of fair use, are often at least a bit more nuanced than the chatter that populates social media platforms, they play out in the globally-reaching court of public opinion online, nonetheless, forcing PR-conscious brands to not only determine whether the strength of their causes of action warrants legal action (and the resources that litigation demands), but also whether even a successful outcome is worth the potentially problematic optics that could come hand-in-hand with such a suit in the minds of consumers.

Content courtesy of The Fashion Law & Nairobi fashion hub 

Amanda Gorman Face Of Vogue Magazine Cover May 2021, The Rise and Rise of Amanda Gorman

Deep in Amanda Gorman’s closet sits a doll that may or may not have stolen the facts of her reluctant owner’s life. A month after the 23-year-old poet eclipsed the transfer of power at President Biden’s inauguration with an energizing performance of her song of a nation, “The Hill We Climb,” she was thinking about an earlier, discomfiting booking at the American Girl boutique at the Grove in Los Angeles.

We were at a green space a stone’s throw from Gorman’s spot in L.A., a one-bedroom in an apartment building the color of sherbet. Reclining on blankets she spread over a manicured knoll, she tilted her head, birdlike, and groaned softly, “They might get angry at me for saying this.”

The Mattel brand had invited Gorman to do a reading celebrating the arrival of Gabriela, the latest “Girl of the Year,” to expectant young customers. This was New Year’s Day, 2017, and Gorman was an 18-year-old freshman at Harvard, home on winter break, decompressing from the surprise of New England frost. At the time, Gorman had already been named Youth Poet Laureate of L.A. (the first one ever) and was a known and admired figure on the national spoken-word circuit.

The night before the event, the American Girl team briefed her on the biography of the doll. It was like a horror movie Peele-Esque, we agreed after she told me the story. “Gabriela loves the arts and uses poetry to help find her voice so she can make a difference in her community,” the website for the defunct toy reads. Gorman loves the arts and uses poetry to help find her voice so she can make a difference in her community.

Gabriela is brown-skinned with curly hair. Amanda is brown-skinned with natural hair. “She was a Black girl with a speech impediment!” said Gorman (referring to her own speech impairment), playfully clawing at the beautiful hive of twists atop her head, adding that her twin sister’s pet name is also, can you believe it, Gabby.

Gorman did the reading anyway. American Girl told me that the doll was not inspired by Gorman’s life, and sent me a photo of Gorman, mid-performance, costumed in Gabriela’s exact outfit. “I felt like if I backed out of the event, I would have been failing the girls who would have this Black doll,” Gorman said. The rest of the year, when advertisements for Gabriela crept into her view, or friends would text her excitedly that they had seen her doll, she would avert her gaze, thinking on the mad vinyl thing she had locked away out of sight at home.

Gorman, good-naturedly, doesn’t want to make a big deal out of the experience, but years later, the notion that “a public figure’s life” could be mined without her consent still rankles, principally because this sort of heated adulation is now inextricable from her ascendant writing career. “I built up this narrative in my head that, you know, I had to be some type of,” she paused, raising her hands from her lap to air-quote, “ ‘role model.’ ”

It was the middle of a February day, and the weather, even for an L.A. winter, was shockingly warm, giving our meeting the conspiratorial feel of hooky. Midafternoon was the only time Gorman could steal away from her overstuffed schedule. Last week there had been a guest spot on the Hillary Clinton podcast, and next week there would be a panel with Oprah.

It was Gorman who remembered to bring the blankets, and hers was embroidered with astrological signs. (“As a twin, I love being a Pisces, because it’s the two fish,” she said. She and her sister are best friends.) Her smallness is formidable. The next time we met, she brought her lunch a veggie burger in Tupperware, and snacks for me: artisanal popcorn, gummi bears, a caramel. A meal gave me occasion to glimpse her unmasked, under a face shield. Her profile sends you back to the golden age of the supermodel.

Her laughter is a great ringing noise. As we took in the sun on our patch of lawn, Gorman reflected on the long journey of her short life: “It took so much labor, not only on behalf of me but also of my family and of my village, to get here.” A toddler in tie-dyed leggings waddled dangerously near to us. Gorman paused and leaned back faux-dramatically.

The kid tittered. I had no way of knowing apart from the telltale stretch of the two masks that covered most of Gorman’s face but it looked like she was grinning.

“It took so much labor, not only on behalf of me but also of my family and of my village, to get here”

“Are you going to start the story with  ‘One day, I met Amanda Gorman in Los Angeles’?” she teased. The acute enjoyment she takes in words is palpable. Her speech quickens whenever she realizes that a sentence she is constructing amounts to interesting assonance which is often as when she described the oratorical styles of Revs. Ralph Abernathy and Martin Luther King Jr:

“The way they let their words roll and gain momentum is its own type of sound tradition.” She takes it upon herself to fill silences, sometimes with words and other times with sound effects. “Do do do do do doooo,” she bounced as her mind worked on a response to a question about her relationship with Clinton, whom she’s known personally for some years. “Such a grandma,” she said affectionately.

Other figures of the Democratic Party, whom she chatted with after the January ceremony, were described in similarly familial terms: Barack Obama, dadlike; Michelle Obama, the cool auntie. In the weeks after we met, Gorman, or radiations of Gorman, were everywhere:

on a February cover of Time, posed in her yellow, and inside the magazine, holding a caged bird, invoking Maya Angelou, interviewed by Michelle Obama; performing virtually at “Ham4Progress Presents The Joy in Our Voices,” a Black History Month celebration from the people behind the Hamilton phenomenon; on an International Women’s Day panel with Clinton, House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, and Chrissy Teigen; in media headlines, nearly every time she tweeted her opinion on a current event; memorialized on vibrant murals in D.C. and Palm Springs that reminded me of Shepard Fairey’s Obama posters.

After the inauguration, she completed a tour of the big talk shows, remotely, from her L.A. apartment. It was a scene. The Trump years and the pandemic had starved the circuit of joy, elegance, positivity, intelligence, hope. But when Gorman came onscreen it was as if DeGeneres, Corden, and Noah had sprung alive from a slumber. She matched the comedians’ wit, the embodiment of spring in her teal.

On his nighttime news digest, Anderson Cooper 360, Cooper asked Gorman to repeat the rhyming mantra she recites before she steps on stage: “I am the daughter of Black writers who are descended from Freedom Fighters who broke their chains and changed the world. They call me.” Cooper visibly reddened at her recitation, his composure utterly destroyed. “Wow,” he almost babbled. “You’re awesome.”

“I have yet to see her finish without a standing ovation,” observed Aaron Kisner, a stage director who has worked with Gorman on a few of her public performances. The friends, colleagues, and family of Gorman’s that I spoke to all unilaterally said that they weren’t surprised by her success. If you book Amanda Gorman, her mother, Joan Wicks, told me, “you don’t feel like you are taking a chance.

” The audience, for Gorman, is not an abstraction but a collaborator in her mode of rousing, outward-facing, and civic-minded poetical speech. She is something of a caring instructor, translating critical race theory for the benefit of eager Americans. Gorman works in the affirmative mode of reaction and response; I spent hours absorbing her poems, which is to say, viewing her performances of them on YouTube.

For the dying climate, she has written “Earthrise.” For the modern crisis of white-supremacist violence, in all its forms, she wrote “In This Place (An American Lyric),” her most ambitious work, a poem she delivered at the inauguration of Tracy K. Smith as the poet laureate of the United States. In 2017, Gorman herself was named the first National Youth Poet Laureate.

Yellow is Gorman’s color, and it had been before the iconic Prada coat. On Instagram, I find that some of her fans have knitted amigurumi, or Japanese crocheted dolls, in her likeness. When we first met, Gorman was wearing a coordinating sweatsuit by Clare V., white with big splashes of tie-dyed marigold. “I feel very Billie Eilish,” she said, almost singing.

She is protective of her writing. There’s pressure. She wondered aloud, “How do you meet the last thing you’ve done?”

Gorman could not stir a moral panic if she tried. “God, I’m just the most squeaky-clean person,” she told me. The importance of maintaining a wholesome image was impressed upon her by her mother, a middle-school English teacher in Watts.

The Gorman family is united in their vision of literary and social success. And success means touching as many readers as possible. Gorman prefers not to curse, or at least not on the record, but when I did in her company, out of habit, she commiserated with very deep nods. If some stimulus disturbs her cool so profoundly that she must reach for a four-letter word, she spells it out loud, always censoring the vowel, as in “s-h-asterisk-t.” What Eilish and Gorman may have in common, I think, is immediately recognizable and conceptually enticing worldviews.

There is a want for cultural saints. A number of secular sects, overlapping around a shared value of multicultural liberalism, seek to draft Gorman to the mantle. And what does Gorman want? For the immediate future? The time and the quiet to finish two books a picture book titled Change Sings A Children’s Anthem and a highly anticipated collection, The Hill We Climb and Other Poems both due in September, both already best-sellers. Asked if she might share from either, Gorman hedged.

The work is not finished yet. She has readers, but she is protective of her writing. There’s pressure. She wondered aloud, “How do you meet the last thing you’ve done?”

The Biden Inaugural Committee informed Gorman that she had been chosen to be the ceremony’s poet in late December. First, she was flattered. She flung herself into research, diagramming the verse of speakers before her, like Angelou, her self-professed “spiritual grandmother,” and Elizabeth Alexander, who read at the first inauguration of President Obama. And then she was concerned. Gorman hadn’t really left her apartment since March when she traveled back to L.A. from the Harvard campus (where she would graduate cum laude that spring). As the virus surged in her city, the thought of getting on a plane terrified her. The January 6 insurrection at the Capitol only augmented her fear. Gorman knows what to expect from certain crowds. The inauguration would be different, unpredictably so, and on an incomprehensible scale.

Gorman described all this with some dissociative distance, as if, that day, she’d been a member of the at-home throng and not on the platform at the West Front. “Not that no one else could have done it,” she told me. “But if they had taken another young poet and just been like, ‘A five-minute poem, please, and by the way, the Capitol was just almost burned down.

See you later.…’ ” She drifted off, her booming voice diminished to a whisper, and then returned. “That would have been traumatizing.”

She asked her advisers. Oprah who’s been a fame doula to Gorman since they first met on John Krasin­ski’s YouTube show Some Good News in May of last year told her to look to the example of Angelou. (“Every time I text Oprah, I have a mini–heart attack,” Gorman jokes, holding her iPhone at arm’s length.) Wicks, who met with me over Zoom after a long day of teaching, encouraged her daughter to keep the appointment because she sees Gorman as a writer who is duty-bound to serve democracy.

“I did have Amanda practice,” Wicks said and lifted her eyes to the ceiling for a few seconds, “how, in a second’s notice, I could become a body shield.” She described crouching over her child in the hotel room the night before.

Just five days before the inauguration, Gorman texted someone at Prada, back then the one fashion house with which she had a connection, and they sent over the outfit and the headband. The red accessory had looked silly, placed at the fore of her head, so her mother suggested Gorman wear it like “a tiara, a crown.” Gorman did her makeup herself.

It snowed lightly the morning of the inauguration. On the stage, Wicks warmed her daughter with blankets. She was shivering. And then, all of a sudden, she was not. “Her nerves don’t show up” in the moments leading to showtime, Kisner, the stage director, told me. “They’ve been processed and dealt with before she walks in the door.”

With all the commotion following the performance, it took Gorman an hour to get back into the hotel. On our patch of green space, she pulled a journal from her tote. Clearing her throat, she read from the entry she wrote that night, redacting a few lines as she went: “I’ve learned that it’s okay to be afraid. And what’s more, it’s okay to seek greatness. That does not make me a black hole seeking attention. It makes me a supernova.”

In one’s memory of the reading, it is the delicate pair of hands, whirling like those of a conductor, that stand out. Gorman developed the movements as a guardrail of sorts, to remind her to slowly pronounce any consonants she has difficulty with. They flutter downward on “descended from slaves,” and tickle up, on “raised by a single mother.”

“Skinny Black girl,” in the single autobiographical line, is the thrillingly out-of-place phrase, for me. All of a sudden, this galvanizing appeal, tailored to move the populace, constricts to the perspective of the individual. The “we” of the poem goes dormant, and we can see into the personal life of the speaker. “They are like essays,” she told me of the work she writes for big audiences. “They have a thesis, an introduction, and a conclusion.”

The argument put forth was this: “But while democracy can be periodically delayed, / it can never be permanently defeated.” To many, depleted of optimism, that pair of lines was a purging of Trumpism. Her publisher, Viking, rushed to package the text of “The Hill We Climb” as a paperback keepsake. On the page, the verse reads differently, less urgently.

The words require her crisp and enunciating powers to feel vivid. Wicks knows that Gorman’s chemical presence is the key. “You could have two poets,” she said, “and one can actually have more talent. But Amanda’s the one who is going to work the room.”

Gorman has now been recruited into that cultural imagination. Does the nature of her introduction to a larger readership cast her like a satellite of the Biden administration? Does the poet who speaks from the corridors of power concede something? There is the classical idea of the poet as the gadfly, who lives outside society. Because Gorman is a public figure, all of these projections and strong feelings she engenders are a part of her work. “I wonder what the journey is for a political poet,” Smith said. “I hope we don’t limit her to that poem. I hope we don’t think that she’s always got to talk to everybody.”

Gorman has said that she wants to be president. She notes that she has the unofficial endorsements of Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama

Following the inauguration, Gorman’s phone, blowing up with notifications, was too hot to touch. Her follower counts on social media ballooned by hundreds of thousands. In one of our conversations, she cautiously brought up a Washington Post article that had been written on her phenomenon, aware that she might sound self-involved. “Skip over the parts about me,” she said.

“The great part is where they’re talking about how, historically, poets have been pop stars.” She listed Longfellow and Wheatley. To Gorman, the concentration of attention, and resources, on the form she loves is a net gain, although she is aware of the inevitable drawbacks of a consumerist and capitalistic dynamic.

You know how it is. A young woman is clear about what she cares about, makes compelling work, and the power brokers don’t know how to act. They venerate her voice to oblivion. The celebrity of Gorman and other comparable young figures, who become vaunted for their erudition and moral clarity and their bright elucidation of global pain, is a new, and complicated, kind of fame.

“It’s like they made her poetry,” said the poet Danez Smith of the ravenous media response to Gorman. Smith has seen Gorman perform and admired the “political heart and mind and attention to history and community” evident in all her work. The first true piece of poetry criticism Gorman ever published, for the Los Angeles Review of Books, was an exacting close reading of Smith’s “Homie,” in which Gorman identified the “fetishization of suffering and violence” rampant in the liberal imagination.

The writer and performer Tavi Gevinson, who knows something about popularity and fetish, met Gorman in Milan at a weekend-long Prada event two years ago. She told me she’d felt relieved to have someone with whom she could talk books. In that overwhelming press cycle after the inauguration, Gorman became a magnet for the “escapist fantasy,” Gevinson said, of the fragile-but-intimidating young woman who saves the world. Gorman is becoming increasingly careful of situations that would make her seem like a token. “I don’t want it to be something that becomes a cage,” she said, “where to be a successful Black girl, you have to be Amanda Gorman and go to Harvard. I want someone to eventually disrupt the model I have established.”

Gorman wanted to show me her quarantine world. She joked that its circumference couldn’t be more than a mile-and-a-half long. We were to walk a winding trail that would take us through some manicured brush and wetlands, only to deliver us to one of the best views of L.A. anyone could find. Gorman was running a little late. She texted me her apologies along with a funny duck-face selfie; her face was covered in the white film of crappy drugstore sunscreen. The day before, she’d gotten a minor case of the dreaded face-mask sunburn, which got us talking about how annoying it is to find protection tailored to our skin.

When she met me near the trail, I told her that the selfie made me think of that episode of Donald Glover’s surrealish FX comedy Atlanta, the one where Antoine Smalls deadpans, “I’m a 35-year-old white man.” Giggling as I explained the episode’s plot, on whiteness and Blackness as inherent farce, she revealed to me that she hadn’t seen Glover’s series.

Or much television, actually. It “was The Munsters and The Honeymooners,” she said, when she was growing up in West L.A. If she wanted to watch something from the 21st century Disney’s animated action-comedy Kim Possible, say she had to make an argument to her mom that the show had good politics.

The third time the television sizzled out in Gorman’s childhood home, Wicks decided not to fix it. The girls were livelier, more creative when they found ways to entertain themselves. There were plays, homemade films, and botched science experiments. All the while Wicks was pursuing a doctorate in education at Loyola Marymount University.

The family sometimes struggled financially. The twins were born prematurely; when she was a baby, Gorman’s head was too heavy for her body, and so she devised a way to push herself along, flat on her back, from the torso, like a belly-up flounder, which she demonstrated to me the day we hung out on the green. The twins both had difficulties with speech.

Because Amanda also had an auditory processing disorder, she could not pronounce the letter r. The family tried therapy, tongue depressors; Gorman exiled words that used the consonant. But there was always a surname, always the word poetry. Education, for Wicks, was paramount. The girls attended New Roads, a progressive learning institution in Southern California.

Growing up, Gabrielle, a talented filmmaker in her own right, was physically stronger than her sister. Amanda was the writer, compulsively, from about age five, stealing time from her sleep to draft short fiction, inspired by Anne of Green Gables. “My mom had to give me a quarter so I’d sleep past 5 a.m.,” she told me on our hike. She applied for L.A. Youth Poet Laureate when she was 16. “I was like, ‘Well, I guess, I’m a poet.’ ” Her early performances were for live shows like WriteGirl,

The Moth, and Urban Word and conferences like TED Talk and Vital Voices the leadership organization for young women that once gave her a fellowship and counts Clinton as a founder. “Roar,” at The Moth, is a charming retelling of the time she auditioned for Broadway’s The Lion King. The poem is riddled with r words, and Gorman takes joy in the effort of pronunciation. Her delivery is rather like a comedian’s; to better illustrate a point about hyenas, she abruptly flips and does a walking handstand.

Gorman spent her college years balancing classes in English, sociology, and the writing workshop she founded, Lit Lounge, with speaking gigs and poetry performances that took her everywhere from the White House to Slovenia. For Gorman, who is grounded by the principles of Black feminism, writing and activism were always linked.

At 16, she founded One Pen One Page, a youth literacy program. Now, after years of commissions and prestigious fellowships, she can afford to rent her apartment situated in its lush, middle-class environs. “I’m trying not to judge myself,” she said, chewing on the gummi bears she’d brought. “When you’re someone who’s lived a life where certain resources were scarce, you always feel like abundance is forbidden fruit.”

That day’s outfit: a cap-sleeve sports dress, sneakers, and a sweater, all by Nike. Putting on the crewneck as the pre-dusk chill set in, she yelled, heartily, “I’m not a BRAND AMBASSADOR or anything!” Gorman loves clothes, loves how they help her shape her image, but she is wary about being perceived as a model, especially after the timing of the announcement of a deal with IMG, which had been in the works long before the inauguration. “When I’m part of a campaign,” she told me, “the entity isn’t my body.

It’s my voice.” Fashion brands are clamoring to be associated with Gorman. One of the members of her team recently sent out a request that companies stop sending her flowers. The unending deliveries had filled Gorman’s apartment, possibly triggering an allergic reaction severe enough to warrant a trip to urgent care.

Gorman gets recognized at doctors’ offices and in the dog park, where she takes her 15-year-old mini poodle, Lulu. Maybe it’s that beautiful hair, piled up high. The life of a poet is not typically one of recognition, or comfort, for that matter. There are a few ways to eke out a living. There’s academia, where the jobs for poets are few and far between.

There’s copywriting or maybe touring if you’re a prolific performer like Gorman. Note that she had been offered the unprecedented spot at the Super Bowl before the inauguration. The poem she read, “Chorus of the Captains,” was an exultant ode to the essential worker. I asked if she felt ambivalent about writing for the NFL, following its treatment of activist Colin Kaepernick. For Nike, last year, she’d written a manifesto in celebration of the legacy of activist Black athletes. “It’s always complicated,” she said. “I said yes, not even for the money. I made so little money doing that shoot. I did it because of what I thought it would mean for poetry in the country, to have poetry performed, for the first time in history, at the Super Bowl.”

She estimated that she’s recently turned down $17 million in offers. “I didn’t really look at the details,” she said of one massive offer from a brand, “because if you see something and it says a million dollars, you’re going to rationalize why that makes sense.” Companies have expectations, which might not always align with Gorman’s goals.

“I have to be conscious of taking commissions that speak to me,” she said. Gorman described once getting feedback after turning in a poem. She’d included a line about Dreamers, and “some people” at the institution, one she didn’t want to name, suggested she remove it. Instead, she arranged certain words so that the letters made an internal sound “DACA.”

We weren’t quite hiking, more like dawdling, next to runners. A middle-aged white woman galloped toward us, shouting a greeting. We turned to each other in silent, know-it-when-you-see-it understanding. We’d been the only Black people either of us had seen over the course of two days. Was that genuine friendliness or a warning? For the next runner, Gorman nudged me and bellowed a loud and preemptive hello.

The greenery might not have a more impressive docent than Gorman. She led me down a path of flora, defining the qualities of eucalyptus and holly berries better than the trail placards. “This is why Hollywood is called Hollywood.” The area had once been the home of the Tongva people, Gorman noted, pre-colonization. We approached a large wooden replica of an Indigenous housing structure, where we sat for a few minutes.

Gorman loves Lin-Manuel Miranda, with whom she’s messaged for a while. “The Hill We Climb” interpolates a rhyme from Hamilton. Miranda recorded a note of gratitude for Gorman, aired on a segment with her on Good Morning America, that made her swoon. I asked her what she thought of the critique, recently expressed in the novelist Ishmael Reed’s play The Haunting of Lin-Manuel Miranda, that Hamilton is a damaging, revisionist work. “Ishmael,” she said. “He’s a little intense.” If you want to be Gorman’s friend, you’ve got to pass the application process. Have you read Harry Potter? Have you listened to Hamilton, or are you open to listening to Hamilton? Are you an intersectional feminist? Have you registered to vote?

Gorman has said that she wants to be president. She notes that she has the unofficial endorsements of Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama. That’s why you won’t find any “negativity” on her social media, to quote Wicks; any image, of her “at a party” or “in a bathing suit,” that might be construed by future pundits as less than savory. Black women will know this form of adaptation. It’s an accommodation to a scrutinizing eye, and it’s now natural for Gorman. She finds satisfaction in being able to set boundaries.

When she’s writing, Gorman told me, she usually looks for water. In a different timeline, she probably would have been a biologist of some sort. On our trail, we found mallards resting in the watery part of the marsh. There was a flimsy, wooden fence Gorman gamely jumped over. To get as close as she wanted to the edge, she’d have to skid down a little hill. She held on to me for balance. “It’s great in spring because they’re all babies. And then they grow up and become rapists,” she said matter-of-factly. “Thankfully, I’m not a female duck.” We laughed at the dark joke.

We looped up and up to where we could see beyond the mountains of the Central Valley, Culver City, Century City, the ocean. “I like coming up here,” she said, “and, in my head, I walk through L.A. and all the places I haven’t seen in literally a year-and-a-half.” She stared at the freeway. “I don’t know if you watched Kimmy Schmidt. Do you know the premise? She’s in a bunker, and then when she comes out, she’s like, ‘Oh, my God, everything’s still here!’ Because she thought everything had been bombed. That’s kind of my mentality when I come up to the mountain. I’m like, ‘Everything’s still here!’ ”

Content courtesy of Vogue & Nairobi fashion hub 

Ananse Africa partners Mastercard Foundation, DHL to connect 1,000 African fashion designers, artists to global markets

Ananse Platform Simplifies Global And Local Transactions For African Designers, Artists, And Artisans

Africans are born storytellers, since the time of old. Ananse (/əˈnɑːnsi/) Africa is the meeting place for authentically African, independent brands to tell their stories.

Storytelling in African cultures has been a way of passing down traditions, keeping cultural practices, as well as maintaining a sense of community. The story of Ananse can be traced back to West African folklore from the Ashanti Region of Ghana. An ode to the origin, Ananse Africa is a digital platform for brands to tell their stories through our e-commerce marketplace.

Beautiful things, made by Africa, delivered globally. This is how best to summarize Ananse Africa, a startup eCommerce platform, launched today, in Johannesburg and Lagos, connecting African designers with local and international consumers. The platform showcases the rich and diverse

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tapestry of Africa’s creative talent and simplifies international eCommerce payments and logistics for creative entrepreneurs on the continent. Ananse has partnered with the Mastercard Foundation and logistics market leader DHL, to roll out the ‘most comprehensive, pan-African eCommerce platform’ to support creative entrepreneurs like fashion designers and artists to enable them to grow their businesses.

“The Mastercard Foundation partnership with Ananse will enable African fashion brands to sell over 1 million garments over the next three years with 75%   sourced from   African suppliers and 70% participation from women.

This will provide a significant boost to the creative economy sector, ” said Mastercard Foundation Country Head, Nigeria, Chidinma Lawanson.

This valuable business tool will enable artists, fashion designers, artisans, and small businesses along the fashion and art value chains, conduct trade and expand their businesses, leveraging the power of the internet in a cost-effective way.

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With countries around the world imposing COVID-19 restrictions on physical retail and international travel, consumers are increasingly switching to online shopping, resulting in a sizeable decrease in the revenues of small businesses like tailors and fashion designers.

“We are not only making it easy for consumers around the world to shop from fashion designers and artists across Africa but also making it straightforward for creatives to manage the payments and logistics functions necessary to complete an eCommerce order,” said the company’s founder Sam Mensah, a Ghanaian ex-Silicon Valley executive and fashion entrepreneur.

Ananse’s eCommerce and POS solutions are simplifying trading in both the physical and digital worlds for creative entrepreneurs in Africa. Ananse provides creative merchants with full support, including production training, quality assurance, online payments, order processing, and packaging.

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The technology solution aims to solve the key problems that prevent African fashion designers, artisans, and artists from being commercially viable and successful.

Speaking at the Ananse launch, Leendert van Delft, DHL Vice-President for Global eCommerce spoke of the company’s experience as the fashion retail and art industry’s leading global logistics partner. “For decades, we have pioneered solutions to meet the needs of artists, designers, retailers, and customers by making it our mission to provide these businesses with exceptional service that translates to a competitive edge.

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Through our collaboration with Ananse, we are delighted to offer fast and efficient international logistics solutions that have proven critical to countless startups over the years,” said van Delft. Furthermore, Ananse announced that it has also formed a strategic media partnership with Trace TV to promote the work of African fashion designers, artists, and artisans to its millions of viewers globally.

Curated content on ananse.com will enable shoppers to explore, get inspired, and enjoy the work of African fashion designers and artists in an engaging manner.

Content courtesy of Van Guard & Nairobi fashion hub 

 

The Future of South Africa Fashion

The STADIO School of Fashion, formally known as LISOF, is one of Africa’s most renowned Fashion Design schools. With its forward-thinking approach and many years of experience, the school aims to create an ecosystem that will ensure a financially secure future for its young talents while growing the economy.

Leonardo Snyman, Executive Head of Arts and Design at STADIO, poses the question: “How can we grow the economy as a whole by using the fashion industry to create jobs, and at the same time ensure a sustainable future for our students?”

A study conducted in March 2020 titled Assessing the Economic Value of the Designer Fashion Sector in South Africa, led by the Department of Trade, Industry and Competition and the South African Cotton Cluster, underpins Snyman’s determination to be an active voice within this economic sector. In this research, it became apparent that designers who form part of the clothing and textile sector in South Africa contributed approximately R1-billion to South Africa’s GDP during 2019.

The STADIO School of Fashion has identified this potential and aims to continue the conversation and actively participate in the positive growth of this sector. While the country is slowly recovering from the impact of Covid-19, fashion may just be the answer to upskill, create jobs and boost the manufacturing sector into further positive growth. As a private higher education institution, the school prides itself on student centredness, local and international accreditation, and its direct ties with the global fashion industry to allow competent graduates to contribute to the growth of this sector.

According to fashion designer and former student Jacques Bam: “Collaboration is the key for any ecosystem to work.” By speaking to and creating relationships within the fashion, arts, and manufacturing industries, the economic sustainability of the South African fashion industry is possible.

The study stated that: “The sector’s contribution to the local economy, as well as identified potential impact, positions the designer apparel sector as a key investment opportunity.” The evidence identifies a future opportunity for the expansion of the industry, in which fashion graduates can create viable careers for themselves and, in turn, support the development of the economic ecosystem.

On April 8 2021 the STADIO School of Fashion will be hosting an event to bring industry practitioners and school educators together to discuss the future of fashion in South Africa. This engagement aims to build a pathway towards a more significant partnership between the school and the vibrant fashion industry. This platform will allow for open communication about methods to ensure career-ready students are appropriately prepared for the industry’s needs and prospects.

The first step in achieving these goals is creating the perfect platform to showcase the students’ work. The STADIO School of Fashion’s first-ever online fashion exhibition is presented in the form of a Look Book that will be showcased in March. A panel of judges will adjudicate the students’ work; this panel includes TV presenter Lala Hirayama, musician Tamara Dey, and fashion designer Jacques Bam.

Innovation and agility are cornerstones to survive the post-pandemic socioeconomic climate, and the STADIO School of Fashion has taken this challenge in its stride. This shift to a virtual Look Book has allowed students to debut their hard work and creative ideas with the rest of the world. It has also created a platform for the public and members of the industry to peek into the wonderful world of fashion the school has facilitated.

The winners of the STADIO School of Fashion and Design’s showcase will be announced at the event in April, giving the industry a taste of what’s in store for STADIO and the future.

Content courtesy of Mail & Guardian 

Judge blocks Lil Nas X’s ‘Satan Shoes’ from Shipping to Customers

Manufacturer MSCHF blocked from shipping out the 666 pairs of the shoes, which retailed at $1,018, to customers

A judge has blocked American singer Lil Nas X’s “Satan Shoes” from being shipped out to customers.

The controversial sneakers, which contained one drop of human blood and were made from modified Nike Air Max 97s, met with a lawsuit from Nike for infringing on and diluting its trademark.

Now a judge has blocked manufacturer MSCHF from shipping out the 666 pairs of shoes, which retailed at $1,018 to customers. All pairs sold out within a minute of going on sale with Miley Cyrus recently being spotted wearing a pre-sale pair.

US district judge Eric Komitee has granted Nike a temporary restraining order preventing the shoes from being shipped to customers, according to The Hollywood Reporter.

Nike’s lawyers say that they have “submitted evidence that even sophisticated sneakerheads were confused” by the shoes, thinking they were made by Nike. And that “we have submitted numerous (pieces of) evidence that some consumers are saying they will never buy Nike shoes ever again”.

Meanwhile, MSCHF says that the confusion is unlikely because of the “sophistication” of the Nike customer.

Citing “The Rogers Test” deriving from a copyright case Rogers Vs Grimaldi, MSCHF contends that the shoes are “individually numbered works of art” that were sold to collectors for $1,018 each and, like their previously released Jesus Shoes, will be exhibited in museums and collections.

The order will stand until there is a more in-depth trial.

The Satan Shoes appeared as merchandise to tie in with the release of Lil Nas X’s song and video Montero (Call Me By Your Name). The video, which saw the singer lap dancing with the devil, has become a talking point among Republican-affiliated public figures.

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The South Dakota governor, Kristi Noem, called the video “disgusting” and “perverted” and conservative activist Candace Owens tweeted in part: “We are promoting Satan Shoes to wear on our feet… But we’re convinced it’s white supremacy that’s keeping black America behind. How stupid can we be?” to which Lil Nas X replied: “don’t care and UR a flop.”

Content courtesy of The Guardian & Nairobi fashion hub

Satan shoes? Sure. But Lil Nas X is not leading American kids to devil-worship

This whole controversy is part of a long history of misdirected moral outrage that blames artists for the social ills of society

Lil Nas X, a 21-year-old musical artist first famous for his rap/country hit Old Town Road, has ruffled quite a few feathers with the release of the video for his new single Montero: Call Me By Your Name. He’s long been a controversial online figure, due in part to his charming and frenetic social media presence and the homophobic attacks he has received since proudly and publicly announcing that he is gay has been gay and will remain gay until the world stops spinning. Absurd conspiracy theories have followed him – from claims that he is brainwashing kids into queerness to his potential ties to the ever-present Illuminati.

Lil Nas X has embraced the hate and conspiracy with his latest song and the accompanying video, which satirically doubles down on the idea that his sexual orientation will send him to hell by visually traveling there himself, lap-dancing for the devil, and usurping him as the king of the underworld.

This, along with his limited release of custom Satanic-themed sneakers made with a trace amount of human blood, has brought a furor of condemnation and fresh conspiracy theories that Lil Nas X worships the devil, is trying to brainwash children, and/or has ties to secretive and sinister organizations.

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This use of satanic images, and the attacks on the artist flaunting them, is nothing new. It is part of a long history of misdirected moral outrage in the United States, one that blames artists for the social ills of society while ignoring the real reasons young people turn away from religion or act outside of the confines of the dominant culture. The controversy also shows a lack of understanding of the origins of the hodgepodge character of Satan and the imagery that has become associated with the fallen angel.

If the story of a potentially Satan-worshiping artist leading the youth astray sounds familiar, it’s because this tune has been played to death. From the bat-biting Ozzy Osbourne to the cryptically named Memphis rap group Three Six Mafia, parents have railed and rallied against innumerable artists over the last few decades. The “satanic panic” has been around for centuries and Christian accusations of devil-worshiping have historically been leveled against women, Jewish people, and other religious groups. Aja Romano, a culture writer at Voxdiscussed its modern incarnation in a recent article:

Modern evangelical Christianity is largely influenced by the kind of epic Christian fantasy that emerged during the 1980s when writers like Frank Peretti turned the concept of “spiritual warfare” into, ironically, a kind of Dungeons and Dragons-like role play that saw good Christians quite literally fighting and defeating actual demons … that version of Christianity spread like wildfire across the country.

Overzealous Christians would demonize everything from the aforementioned tabletop game to heavy metal lyricists whose satanic instructions could purportedly be heard by playing their music backward. This led to the “ritual abuse scare” that started in the 1980s and still lingers today, a pre-QAnon conspiracy theory that held that daycare teachers around the country were sexually abusing children as part of a massive satanic cult. Mary de Young, a sociology professor, recently explained an underlying cause of the panic to the New York Times:

More women were going to work, by choice and necessity in the wake of the women’s rights movement and as the country struggled with a recession. Conservatism and the religious right were ascendant, and both emphasized the nuclear family. Good daycare was hard to find … and many parents felt guilt for relying on it.

After numerous lives were ruined, the panic turned out to have little evidence behind it. Artists like Marilyn Manson deliberately played on parents’ fears and adopted the cult-like images that threatened them. Like many of the artists who came before him, Lil Nas X is sporting the satanic aesthetic as a means to court controversy, and to deliver a message about the hellishness of contemporary life and its arbitrary yet harmful social restrictions.

The modern understanding of Satan has at least partially been driven by artists like Lil Nas X and Hollywood producers seeking to scare and titillate audiences. The Old Testament itself doesn’t exactly contain the full character of Satan as we know him today; it was later assembled over the years, partially borrowed from the religion of the also monotheistic Zoroastrians.

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The New Testament introduced Satan more formally, often used as a character to explain away the ills of the world like disease and struggles with mental health; it was also weaponized against Jewish people, with claims that they did the work of the devil.

According to Rebecca I Denova, a scholar who studies early Christianity, the image of Satan was later crafted, drawing from the horned Greek deity Pan, and retroactively given shape-shifting powers so that he could take the role of the deceitful serpent who tempted Eve in the Garden of Eden a relationship that would be used to blame women for various social problems and the fall of man.

Much of the other imagery we associate with Satan is fairly modern. For example, the image of Baphomet, the goat-headed man, in an inverted Pentagram has origins in the 1897 work of the occult author Stanislas de Guaita. These images were then purposely adopted by the Church of Satan in the 1960s, and The Satanic Temple in 2012, two groups that don’t actually believe in the existence of Satan but use the image to generate controversy. The Satanic Temple is mainly concerned with issues concerning freedom of religion and spends more time lobbying than worshiping the devil. Much like artists like Lil Nas X, they courted the imagery because they knew it would draw attention.

If anything, Christian churches themselves are doing a great job at pushing people away from the pews. In a 2019 survey of young people who stopped going to church, conducted by Lifeway research – a Christian research organization 73% of all respondents listed the church or their pastor as a reason they stopped attending, including specific reasons like political differences and hypocrisy.

While there are many progressive religious organizations in the United States, some of the largest religious institutions have a history of protecting sexual predators and condemning people for whom they love – while some denominations, including many composed of white evangelicals, have essentially become far-right political factions.

Despite all this, the kids are for the most part still living the dreams of many a Christian parent. Gen Z is relatively more “moral” on paper than most previous generations. Members of Gen Z have less sex, and the rate of teen pregnancies has plummeted. They are less likely to use drugs than their predecessors and have turned away from the American pastime of binge drinking.

They are more likely to see themselves as activists and more likely to believe that racism is real. While many of these behaviors are ethically neutral and more about the social conditions driving them to prioritize survival above all else, it speaks to the fact that young Americans are not becoming the Satan-worshiping sex addicts that people fear that artists like Lil Nas X will turn them into. They are in fact a generation preparing themselves to face the existential threats of climate change, capitalist overconsumption, and growing pollution-induced infertility. Let them be gay, let them be free, let them have their music.

Written By Akin Olla 

Akin Olla is a Nigerian American political strategist and organizer.

He is the host of This is the Revolution Podcast

Content courtesy of The Guardian & Nairobi fashion hub 

Women-led Kenyan Design House Pine Kazi wins Fashionomics Africa sustainable Design Competition for turning Fruit Waste into Eco-friendly Footwear

The African Development Bank’s (www.AfDB.org) Fashionomics Africa initiative has named a women-led Kenya shoe design house as the winner of its competition to support producers of sustainable fashion.

Pine Kazi, which converts pineapple leaf and recycled rubber into fashionable footwear, won the $2,000 Fashionomics Africa competition cash prize. In addition, the business will have the opportunity to showcase its creation in online events, share insights on key sustainability challenges facing the industry, and receive a certificate.

The brand, co-founded by Olivia Okinyi, Angela Musyoka, and Mike Langa, will also have access to media opportunities and receive mentoring and networking opportunities from competition collaborators.

“Pine Kazi is greatly humbled to be the winners of the first Fashionomics Africa contest in Africa. This is indeed an honour to the Kenyan people and the African continent at large,” said Okinyi.

Musyoka added: “All our dreams can come true if we have the courage and the patience to pursue them.”

Competition judges said Pine Kazi’s shoes are innovative and sustainable. The upper of the shoe is made from pineapple textile, while the inside is lined with organic cotton. The sole is made from sisal plant fiber, fitted with recycled tyre underneath.

The Fashionomics Africa contest honours African fashion brands working to change how fashion is produced, bought, used and recycled, to encourage more sustainable consumer behavior. A panel of four judges representing the Bank and competition collaborators the United Nations Environment Program, the Parsons School of Design, and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation reviewed 110 entries from 24 African countries and selected three finalists: Pine Kazi; CiiE Luxuries, an eco-friendly accessories business based in Abuja, Nigeria; and clothing brand Labake Lagos.

“We were pleasantly surprised by all the applications received for the first edition of our Fashionomics Africa competition. It was very difficult to make a choice, but the finalists stood out with their innovative, durable, and contemporary designs,” said Emanuela Gregorio, coordinator of the Fashionomics Africa initiative at the African Development Bank.

Of the applications, 65% were submitted by women and the businesses were predominantly micro-enterprises (54%), solo entrepreneurs (35%), and small businesses (12%).

“What we learned from this Fashionomics Africa contest, in this month celebrating women around the world, is that many women entrepreneurs are advocating for sustainable production and consumption, and we commend their efforts,” said Amel Hamza, Division Manager at the Bank’s Gender, Women and Civil Society Department.

An online public vote by 986 participants determined the winner: Pine Kazi got 400 votes, 318 votes went to CiiE Luxuries, and 268 to Labake Lagos.

Competition judge and a Program Director at New York-based Parsons School of Design, Brendan McCarthy, congratulated Pine Kazi during the competition winners’ announcement last Friday: “You transformed waste materials from pineapples into profound new textiles and absolutely beautiful new shoes,” he said.

The shoes are 100% handmade to reduce carbon footprint and can last three years, Pine Kazi says.

The design house said resources would also be divided equally between research and development of natural dyes, the acquisition of professional stylists, and the establishment of a centralized production system.

To learn more about the Fashionomics Africa online competition,

Fashionomics Africa (https://FashionomicsAfrica.org) is an initiative of the African Development Bank to increase Africa’s participation in the global textile and fashion industry value chains – with an emphasis on women and youth.

Distributed by APO Group on behalf of African Development Bank Group (AfDB).

Media Contact:
Alphonso Van Marsh
Principal Digital Content and Events Officer
African Development Bank
Email: a.vanmarsh@afdb.org

 

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