Five Key Takeaways from New York Fashion Week AW25

From modernity and minimalism to sustainability and sportswear, the Autumn/Winter 2025 season delivered striking moments and thought-provoking conversations. New York Fashion Week was always set to be a unique affair this year. A looming snowstorm, political uncertainty in the U.S., and the absence of industry heavyweights such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Proenza Schouler all contributed to an atmosphere of unpredictability. Additionally, with four major fashion houses currently without creative directors, industry-wide turbulence was palpable. The conversation even reached the point where Business of Fashion questioned whether February should remain part of New York Fashion Week at all.

Yet, despite the challenges, the week offered undeniable creative energy. While homegrown powerhouses like Calvin Klein, Coach, Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, and Tory Burch presented their polished aesthetics, a wave of independent designers brought fresh vitality. Khaite, Luar, Christopher John Rogers, Diotima, and Thom Browne showcased inventive collections, while Marc Jacobs, ever the visionary, opened the week with his off-schedule Spring/Summer 2025 show—a masterclass in fantasy and escapism.

The five most compelling takeaways from NYFW AW25:

1. Veronica Leoni’s Impactful Debut at Calvin Klein
Quiet luxury may have reached its saturation point, but Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein proved there is still room for refined minimalism. The 41-year-old Italian designer, who previously worked under Phoebe Philo and The Row, delivered a streamlined, modern wardrobe of sharp tailoring and draped jersey. With Calvin Klein himself watching from the front row alongside muses Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, the collection marked the brand’s first runway show since Raf Simons’ departure six years ago. While not as sensual as Klein’s signature style, Leoni’s vision was a sophisticated evolution, embracing simplicity with a contemporary edge.

2. Michael Kors’ Enduring Optimism
Michael Kors remains unwavering in his optimistic outlook. With 44 years in the industry, he has witnessed the cyclical nature of fashion and remains steadfast in his belief that style should instill confidence. “When the world is this crazy, you need to feel confident and comfortable,” Kors remarked ahead of his show. His AW25 collection, while luxurious and high-end, stood in contrast to the season’s prevailing minimalism. Instead, Kors offered rich textures and elegant silhouettes for a woman who values classic glamour. Notably, he acknowledged that Melania Trump has been a longtime customer, emphasizing that she purchases his designs rather than receiving them as gifts.

3. Leather Reigns Supreme
If one material dominated the AW25 season, it was leather. Catherine Holstein of Khaite elevated her signature outerwear by pairing cashmere T-shirts with elbow-length calfskin opera gloves—an effortless styling trick. Coach introduced shrunken, distressed leather jackets reminiscent of well-worn vintage finds, paired with oversized, skater-inspired trousers. Tory Burch echoed this silhouette with boxy, patchworked leather jackets and plush velvet trousers. Meanwhile, Brandon Maxwell presented fluid leather skirts, and Michael Kors’ belted leather trench confirmed the fabric’s enduring appeal.

4. Stuart Vevers Champions Sustainability at Coach
As one of Britain’s most commercially successful designers, Stuart Vevers has shaped Coach into an accessible yet innovative brand since 2013. Backstage, holding one of his four-year-old twins, he reflected on the importance of self-expression and sustainability, particularly for younger consumers. Coach’s Coachtopia initiative, launched in 2023, underscored the brand’s commitment to circular fashion. This season, pre-worn and reworked leather pieces took center stage, their aged patina adding depth to the collection’s storytelling. Even the opulent flapper dresses, layered over baggy trousers in true 90s style, were authentic vintage pieces.

5. Tory Burch Redefines Modern American Fashion
Practicality and functionality have long been pillars of American fashion, and Tory Burch continues to refine this ethos. Set against the sleek backdrop of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), her AW25 collection celebrated contemporary dressing with an effortless allure. While many designers leaned into sportswear influences, Burch’s designs maintained a polished yet wearable appeal. The collection, characterized by intelligent layering and sophisticated silhouettes, was not about minimalism but rather a fresh and modern take on everyday elegance.

Despite external challenges, New York Fashion Week AW25 reinforced its relevance by showcasing a dynamic mix of heritage brands and emerging talents. Whether through Veronica Leoni’s poised debut, Michael Kors’ unwavering optimism, the dominance of leather, Stuart Vevers’ commitment to sustainability, or Tory Burch’s redefinition of modern dressing, this season delivered moments of creativity and vision. Far from being redundant, NYFW remains an essential platform for shaping the future of global fashion.

Content courtesy of NFH Digital Team