Monday 17th of February 2025

Nairobi, Kenya

Three African Rising Fashion stars offer Standout Spring Looks

Personal heritage defines the collections of Thebe Magugu, Supriya Lele and Chopova Lowena. The two latter designers have just been nominated for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2021

When it comes to articulating ideas of identity, the fashion world has traditionally drawn from external and historical sources to create evocative visions. As well as that may be, a new wave of young, emerging designers are instead looking inwards and expressing their sense of self in ways rarely seen before.

In Johannesburg, designer Thebe Magugu has used his collections to preserve and share South African culture. In London, British designer Supriya Lele mines her Indian heritage to create universally flattering silhouettes, while the rising label Chopova Lowena seeks out Bulgarian deadstock fabrics to create its signature folkloric skirts. Drawing on their individual heritage to champion diversity, these designers widen the fashion lens in ways worth applauding.

Supriya Lele

As distinct as traditional Indian dressing and 1990s minimalism may seem, these opposing forces come together memorably in the hands of the British designer Supriya Lele. Known for her layered silhouettes that flatter all female forms, Lele began exploring her Indian heritage while studying fashion at London’s Royal College of Art (she graduated with a master’s degree in 2016), where she also realised the importance of experimentation in her creative process.

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She realised that ‘the only way I can work is in 3D, on the stand, by draping’, she says. The process ‘really set the tone for what I wanted to do going forward’.

Lele was selected to show her graduate collection with the pioneering design incubator Fashion East. Her debut at London Fashion Week in 2017 was staged at Tate Modern, and she continued to show under Fashion East’s stewardship for the next three seasons. In 2019, Lele was sponsored by the British Fashion Council through its NewGen initiative and in 2020, she took home part of the LVMH Prize Fund, which was split equally among eight finalists (also including label Chopova Lowena, see opposite) for the first time.

Industry success aside, Lele’s brand of female-centric inclusivity could not feel more sincere. Her S/S21 collection exuded a panache inspired by how her all-female team dressed immediately after the first round of lockdown restrictions had eased.

Despite the logistical challenges of its creation, the collection encapsulates a youthful sexiness. Minimalist silhouettes are amplified by vibrant shades of azure blue and fuchsia; lingerie-inspired details such as delicate ties gingerly hold up draped tops and dresses; and embellishments such as sequins and lace add finesse. Several bright, Madras-check pieces were cut from fabric sourced from Lele’s grandmother’s favorite sari shop in Jabalpur, in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh.

‘What the pandemic has done is bring people together,’ Lele reflects. ‘Everyone has gone through this together and there’s an openness to the fashion system changing; to people showing in their own way and different methods. I think we all really needed that break in the cycle and rhythm.’

Chopova Lowena

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena transform overstock and deadstock Bulgarian fabrics into oversized Victorian-style blouses and accordion-pleated skirts festooned with carabineers and large buckles. Their work is a triumphant celebration of heritage, cleverly transposed into a contemporary context.

Chopova, who was born in Bulgaria but grew up in the United States, and Lowena, who hails from Somerset in the UK, share a passion for craft and sustainability. ‘I became very interested in Bulgarian dress when I started my BA at Central Saint Martins in London and met Laura,’ says Chopova. ‘I was collecting and wearing traditional dress, but it wasn’t until we did our MA together that we started using Bulgarian references in our work.’

With an archive that spans wall hangings, needlepoints and aprons, the duo’s approach is highly individualised. ‘For us, it’s about having the right product in mind and the right usage for it,’ says Chopova.

The pair dissociate the fabrics from their origins by juxtaposing them with utilitarian silhouettes and sporty embellishments. For S/S21, they invited artists and craftspeople to contribute, a collaboration that resulted in jeans printed with painterly designs and T-shirts featuring abstract imagery made from cut-up Bulgarian postcards.

Thebe Magugu

Originally from the South African mining town of Kimberley, Thebe Magugu moved to Johannesburg to study fashion at LISOF. The 2019 winner of the LVMH Prize, he continues to fly the flag for African culture and provenance, using his eponymous label to highlight social issues, local standards of production, and the potential for growth.

‘I think African stories have often been told by people who aren’t African, and thus distort accounts for their own agenda,’ says Magugu. ‘The collections are inspired by real people and their stories; stories that are often missed in the history books.’

These include the human rights activists of Black Sash, who inspired Magugu’s S/S19 collection, and spies who worked for and against the apartheid regime, whom he interviewed for his S/S21 offering. The resulting collection brims over with hidden details, including patterns developed from the fingerprints of a former spy, and a print featuring official confessions provided by the South African government.

‘Instead of working abroad, I want to create something for us, by us. I think this sentiment, now more than ever, is shared by many designers working on the continent,’ says Magugu, who launched his online store.

Content courtesy of Wallpaper & Nairobi fashion hub

 

Top 20 Beard Styles for African Men

1. The Full Beard

The full beard used to be the most popular beard style for black men, and for good reason,The good news is that what was old is new again, and this classic beard style has been making a resurgence in recent years.
Regardless of the haircut or hair growth pattern, the full beard can be shaped and sculpted to go with just about any face. Men with high-coiffed hair will be able to pull off this look easily.
The full beard is also popular with lovers of vintage styles who can appreciate this aged look.

2. The Five O’clock Beard

Make no mistake about it, a five o’clock shadow will make any man look irresistible,Today, men of all ages are in search of the perfect three-day-old beard because it gives the appearance of the five o’clock shadow.
Don’t get fooled by this laid back and lazy look because it does require some serious maintenance to pull it off successfully.
The cheek and neck area must be shaved on a daily basis in order to master the look, while a quality beard oil will help to give the rest of the facial hair that relaxed cool appearance.
Trim the beard every three days to maintain this incredibly sexy look.

3. The Goatee

One of the most popular beard styles for black men today is the manly goatee beard,The biggest appeal for guys with the goatee beard is that you can sculpt it in different ways but still get the desired look.
Black guys who have rounded faces can really make the most of this beard style by incorporating and connecting it to the mustache.

Regardless if you trim the edges thin or let them go thicker, the goatee beard commands attention especially when it is allowed to reach its full potential.

4. The Short Beard

One of the more appealing beard trends in the African-American communities is the short beard.It might appear on the surface that men with black skin would not be able to pull off the shorter beard because it blends with their skin color, but it actually helps to give them a look many women and men actually prefer.

The trick is to let the beard grow out longer than three days to get past the sloppy stage. Once it has grown out for a week or more, the beard will line up and become more symmetrical.

5. The Carved Beard

Young men are sporting the carved beard because it better allows them to express their own unique personality,This sculpted beard style features perfectly shaped contours that require dedication and skill to master.
A precision trimmer or razor are used to sculpt the cheekbones, goatee, neck, and mustache. It is best suited for men with dense beard hair.
Be prepared however to be working on your beard daily to maintain this look. The extra work will definitely pay off in a huge influx of attention.

6. Soul Patch

Probably the simplest of all beard types for the black man. It gives them that certain style that has an imperial feel to it.
Another variation of the goatee, the soul patch is simply a strip of facial hair that extends down from the lower lip to the chin and can be trimmed just about any width.
In addition to the soul patch, the mustache is a unique way to compliment this beard style and can extend all the way to the center of the chin to create the chin strap.
This is a look that will certainly command your fair share of attention.

7. Nicolas II Style

If you have thought that you saw the last of this beard style back in the early twentieth century, know that it has seen a resurgence this year and it appears to be growing in popularity with black men especially.
Popular with hipsters, the beard style is nothing more than the beard peaking at the chin, complemented with a very long mustache.
Don’t let this unique style scare you, it might appear different at first, but will certainly grow on you.

8. The Van Dyke Beard

The Van Dyke beard is clean, crisp, sharp, and really a unique twist on the traditional goatee.
Made popular by the Flemish artist Anthony Van Dyke, the beard style is nothing more than a small beard on the chin connected to the goatee but with little or no mustache at all.

This imperial look must be trimmed daily to maintain its appearance.
This is certainly an acquired taste and one that leaves plenty of room for creativity when it comes to widening the soul patch or shaping the chin beard.

9. The Mutton Chops

One of the most daring beard styles for black men are the mutton chops. This is a look that requires a certain sense of bravery and commitment that will result in a style unlike any other.
To pull off this manly look successfully, the key is to shave the chin area, the mustache and the soul patch.
The remaining hair on the sideburns needs to grow out longer, denser, and larger along the cheek and jawline.
Once they have grown thick, they need to be trimmed along the edges to give them a bold powerful look.

10. The Chin Curtain

The chin curtain beard style is exactly what you would envision it to be if it was not described to you.
The beard is carefully trimmed starting at the sideburns in a perfect line down the jawline, along the chin, and back up to the other side.
The line of hair does not come in contact with the mustache. This linear design does require some skill and precision to get it right and may need to be trimmed daily to help it stand out.

To maximize the look of the chin curtain, shaving off the mustache is preferred.

11. The Anchor Beard

The anchor beard also goes by the name Balbo, and it’s a fun combination of the goatee and mustache.
Look at this beard style from a distance and it appears to look exactly like an anchor or possibly an inverted tree. Black actors in Hollywood have made this beard style extremely popular now.

The beard style is nothing more than a full thick goatee with a section shaved that connects the mustache and chin beard.
These two missing sections need to be trimmed daily to maintain the appearance of the anchor or Balbo beard.

 

12. Friendlier Mutton Chops

Now while the original mutton chops might scare some people, this watered-down version is a friendlier alternative for those who want to be able to wear their mutton chops proudly.
The friendly mutton chops are the same length and shape as the original. The one big difference is that you want to grow out the mustache for a more inviting look.
To further complement this beard style, allow the hair on the cheeks and jaw to grow to about medium length.

13. The Barely Shaved Beard

Do not get the shaved beard confused with no facial hair at all. Although from a distance it can appear you are clean-shaven, the trick here is to let the stubble grow each day to the same length before trimming.
By keeping the trimmer set on the lowest possible setting and shaving at the same time each day, by late afternoon this beard will look like little sprouts making their way to the surface of your face
This sexy five o’clock shadow look can be trimmed and sculpted differently to allow facial hair to grow in precise areas.

14. The Bald Man Beard

When it comes to beard styles for black men, the bald man beard is a classic that just never seems to go out of style.
Popularized by men who were balding and still could grow full beards, the beard was thick and luxurious and climbed the jawline right to the edge of the ear before a clean line was made and no hair is allowed to proceed higher.
Not only does this look command attention, even guys with a full head of hair would shave it bald just to get the benefits and attention this look commands.

15. The Circle Beard

Here is a fun beard style that looks great with any face shape. The idea here is creating a small linear strip of beard that follows the jawline from the ears to the goatee.
The goatee will be growing in slightly longer to become the focal point. The trick here is not to go for squared off cuts with the goatee.

Everything needs to be rounded from the mustache to the chin beard, then up and towards the ears.
This tame look is for men who want to keep things sophisticated and yet mysterious at the same time.

16. The Split Beard

Allow your beard to grow in thick and full, then when it starts to extend past the chin, you can split it in two.
This is a killer beard style that has become all the rage with Jack Sparrow and each release of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies.
This beard appeals to many guys who want to give the appearance of being wild and spontaneous, yet cool and collected at the same time.

17. Mid-Range Stubble

Just before the facial hair reaches a certain growth point, most likely in 4 – 7 days, you trim it and it looks like stubble.
The key here is that you are not going for the five o’clock shadow look that only takes a day to achieve, you want the facial hair to grow to the point it almost begins to resemble a beard but not quite.

A stubble beard does take some skill and dedication to master, but the benefits far outweigh all the efforts.
This classic look is irresistible to anyone within arm’s length, and even a 1/2 inch of growth will suffice.
Be careful because if you miss the mark, you go from elegant celebrity to drunken hobo in a flash.

18. Ducktail Beard

This is not your typical neck beard here, it is one of those beard styles that has exploded in popularity in recent years.
Look at James Harden on the basketball court, how his duck tail beard commands attention in an arena of 50,000 screaming fans.
The key to the duck tail beard is allowing the chin hair to grow out as far as you can so that it resembles the tail of a duck, then shape it any way you like.
Looks great with a tee-shirt and jeans or a business suit and sunglasses.

19. The Garibaldi Beard

This might appear on the surface to be nothing more than a completely out of control chin strap combined with a neck beard.
To pull this beard style off it does take a layer of commitment that mortal men can not handle.
This beard requires you to grow out the facial hair long below the chin in the shape of the letter “U”. The closer you can get to the “U” shape, the better the overall look.

20. The Mini Goatee

If you are serious about growing facial hair but the work environment puts a serious hurt on your ability to express yourself, then you might want to go with the mini goatee to start.

This is about as small as you could go with the facial hair.
It is nothing more than a little strip of hair under the nose and some near the chin. Some guys just go with the tiny patch under the chin and leave it at that.
Go small, and see how far you can push the limits without being asked to grab that razor.Content courtesy of Beardoholic & Nairobi Fashion Hub

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