Tuesday 11th of February 2025

Nairobi, Kenya

Paris Fashion Week: McGirr Debuts McQueen, While Valentino Presents an Ornate Black Study.

Valentino’s newest fashion show, an homage to the dark, was held on Sunday in the hallowed salons of a large 18th-century palace. This monochromatic collection, which was influenced by renowned painters like Pierre Soulages, the French master of black, glittered and glistened among a variety of textures and materials beneath crystal chandeliers.

A moon’s distance away, in the dark expanse of an industrial warehouse strewn with bare concrete surfaces and abandoned iron rails, the shivering guests of Alexander McQueen gathered under blankets, vibrating with an electric expectation.
This was not just any other fashion show, but it signified the start of a new era for a house with a rich and controversial past, as well as the introduction of Sean McGirr as the new creative director.

1. The Nooir of Valentino
“I approached black as a canvas, a starting point on which to build silhouettes that could move while looking for lights around, to soak them in and reflect them,” said designer Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The paradoxes of the color, which might be used to symbolize sobriety and exuberance, lack light while absorbing reflections, captivated the photographer. It brought to mind Soulages’ ideology, which passed away in 2022.
As a result, all-black ensembles with a hint of Valentino’s heyday and glitz from the 1980s walked by, daywear and evening merging seamlessly due to the color’s strong attraction.

Fashionable home pieces were reinterpreted with a contemporary twist, for example, consider the dramatic black rosette embellishing a sleeve or the subtle skin peeking out from behind layers of silk. Athletic A-line skirts with tubular frills were also a hit.
Although the collection avoided the risk of feeling one-note, feathers, leather, sequins, and lace added slight textural tension, not quite enough to keep it from feeling that way.

Yet, the last set of dresses, which included a stunning floor-sweeping gown made of transparent chiffon, was a magnificent study in elegance. Poignantly scattered like a constellation of black stars, delicate ornaments were scattered across it.

2. Alexander Mcqueen’s New Beginnings
After 14 remarkable years of Sarah Burton, there was a lot of pressure on the relatively unknown 35-year-old designer from Dublin, McGirr, to present in this debut a vision and identity. Burton left large shoes to fill when she left McQueen last season. After the brand’s creative creator passed away suddenly and tragically, Burton weaved her story into the brand’s darkly romantic ethos.

Described as “rough opulence” and with the goal of “unveiling the animal within,” McGirr’s debut collection aligned with Alexander McQueen’s fundamental principles, which include a blend of Gothic charm, provocativeness, historical fashion references, and the brand’s signature dramatic tailoring.

A model wearing a darkly twisted black laminated garment that looked to swallow her hands whole opened the show. This startling picture of confinement recurred throughout the collection.
This idea of bound was repeated in the ropes that wound around the slender legs of jeans and the sturdy boots that transformed into the hooves, tails, and menacingly large leather coats of horses.
Still, there were times when designs bordered on garish, with patterned ancient Renaissance sleeve dresses and oversized knitwear resembling “car tires” that lacked the nuance of his predecessor.
Even though there were some dazzlingly bold moments in the collection, McGirr chose to play it safe rather than take the chance of making a mistake by pushing the boundaries.
Maybe this premiere would have been better served by a more intimate, low-key, and less stressful presentation style.

However, a surprising undercurrent of joy and whimsy emerged within the collection’s melancholic thoughts, best expressed by the mellifluous tune of his compatriot Enya’s “Sail Away” filling the air.
It brought a cheerful brightness to the room that was slightly mirrored in McGirr’s sometimes humorous designs.

3. Mugler’s Drama, Light, and Shadow Infused With Mist

During the Sunday night show, Mugler’s guests were mesmerized by the mist-filled theatrics.
The staging used dramatic elements such as strobe lights, smoke machines, and cascading drapes to convey drama.
Watched by celebrities like Brooklyn Beckham, layers of curtains dropped from the Lycee Carnot school atrium, where models used light and shadow to accentuate already outstanding appearances.
There was corsetry, asymmetry, and flesh everywhere.
Designer Casey Cadwallader has been pushing conventional fashion norms with a rigorous examination of the human form since his debut, using a strikingly erotic style. This autumn was no different.

Huge black tuxedos are worn with bras above naked torsos. The hems of body-hugging minidresses featured loose, billowing bands. There were many themes of hiding, such as transparent textiles that showed off nipples and cleverly positioned fabric portions that only offered modesty.

The American designer is still having a big impact on the Paris fashion scene.
He promoted diversity this season as well, displaying models of all ages, sizes, and ethnicities, including numerous plus-sized models. The stunning 63-year-old Farida Khelfa stole the show in a crimson-fringed poncho dress that was bright.

Incorporating digital components to produce captivating exhibitions that connect with a modern audience, Cadwallader’s presentations are renowned for fusing performance, art, and fashion.
This ensures that Mugler remains a prominent figure in today’s fashion discourse.

Content courtesy of Thomas Adamson from The Press Association & NFH 

 

What To Anticipate During Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2024

Looking forward, Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2024 promises a month of creative director debuts, huge runway shows, and lots of new names to check out with visits in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.
Suddenly, Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2024 appears on the horizon, promising a packed month-long schedule of catwalk shows, presentations, and events in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Menswear Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week are also concluding for another season.
This season is sure to be exciting, as numerous companies will be making their much-awaited debuts as creative directors.

Irish fashion designer Seán McGirr will debut his first runway collection at Alexander McQueen (the British company will remain based in Paris following Sarah Burton’s last presentation in the city in September).

Chemena Kamali will also be returning to her career-starting home at Chloé. She most recently served as the womenswear design director at Saint Laurent. Matteo Tamburini will take over at Tod’s in Milan, while Walter Chiapponi, his predecessor, will take up residence at Blumarine.
Here is what to anticipate from Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2024, according to Wallpaper.

New York Fashion Week A/W 2024 (9 – 14 February 2024)
What to expect from New York Fashion Week A/W 2024 (9–14 February 2024) and Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2024
Peter Do will kick off fashion month with his highly anticipated Helmut Lang sophomore collection. The designer started working for the company last year, and in his September runway show, he referenced American stereotypes and the house founder’s simple design principles. In addition, a partnership with American poet and writer Ocean Vuong was shown, with her writing appearing on clothing and the catwalk. As Do becomes used to the job during his second season, expect these codes to change.

3.1 Phillip Lim, Collina Strada, Tommy Hilfiger, and Willy Chavarria, one of New York’s most promising talents and a member of last year’s Wallpaper* USA 300, are among the other participants on day one (expect a high-octane occurrence at the final). Ludovic de Saint Sernin will be returning from Paris this season, while the remainder of the week will include designs from New York Fashion Week mainstays Proenza Schouler, Eckhaus Latta, Area, Tory Burch, Coach, Michael Kors, and Gabriela Hearst.

Thom Browne, who returns to New York Fashion Week on February 14, will wrap up the week. This is a fitting decision given that the American designer is now the head of the CFDA, the organization that oversees the event.

London Fashion Week (16 – 20 February 2024)
The two most anticipated shows of London Fashion Week are still JW Anderson (18 February) and Burberry (19 February evening), with the latter including Daniel Lee’s third runway presentation for the brand. The legacy brand will make its presence in the city known with the announcement of a high-profile acquisition of London’s Harrods department store earlier this month.

In addition, Dunhill will be included in the calendar for the first time since 2020, marking the entrance of new creative director Simon Holloway with a small salon-style display (the event also falls on the house’s 130th anniversary, having been established in London in 1893).

Now in its 40th year, London Fashion Week is always brought to life by the city’s up-and-coming designers, who are back this season in full force. Anticipate a second runway show from Aaron Esh, which will take place on one of the upper floors of Tate Modern’s Blavatnik Building.
Aaron Esh made a strong debut last season. Other highlights include new collections from Robyn Lynch, Conner Ives, KNWLS, Tolu Coker, and Conner Ives, as well as the Central Saint Martins MA fashion show, which will showcase a new wave of young talent.

The week’s highlights come from the city’s more well-known, yet equally fascinating, names, such as Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Roksanda, Erdem, and Ahluwalia.

Milan Fashion Week (20 – 26 February 2024)
Expect fresh ideas for both Tod’s and Blumarine, even if there might not be the big-name debuts that characterized the previous season—namely, Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, who will present his second womenswear collection from the house this time around.

Former Bottega Veneta designer Matteo Tamburini will assume the helm at the former, while Walter Chiapponi, who succeeded Nicola Brognano last year, will showcase a fresh collection for the brand at the latter. As a result, anticipate a departure from the Y2K style that characterized Brognano’s administration.
Feben, a London-based designer who is considered one of Wallpaper’s designers to watch in 2024, will make her Milan Fashion Week debut with Dolce & Gabbana’s help.

Highlights elsewhere will undoubtedly include Ferragamo (following Maximilian Davis’s sleek collection from last season, which continued his evolution of the brand), Tom Ford (Peter Hawkings’ sophomore outing), Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Max Mara, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bottega Veneta.
All eyes will be on OMA’s striking menswear set, which clashes the great outdoors with a corporate office.
Marni wraps out the week with a return to Milan following exhibitions in New York, Tokyo, and Paris.

Paris Fashion Week (26 February – 5 March 2024)
The month comes to an end with Paris Fashion Week, a nine-day event that features some of the most anticipated runway shows of the season.
Dior, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balenciaga, Hermès, Miu Miu, and Chanel are just a few of the designers who are expected to deliver visually stunning runway shows that will undoubtedly dominate social media.
Seán McGirr, an Irish designer who succeeded Sarah Burton as Alexander McQueen’s creative director in September, will also showcase his latest vision for the brand.

On the evening of March 2, he will present his debut collection for the British House, making it undoubtedly one of the events of the week to speak about.

In the meantime, Louis Vuitton will take up the last place for the week on March 5 at 6.30 p.m.
Anticipate a high-profile event. Nicolas Ghesquière started working at the renowned French house 10 years ago, and over the last several weeks, he has been sharing highlights from that time on Instagram.
Will it be a greatest-hits event for him in A/W 2024?

Content courtesy of Wallpaper & NFH 

Top 10 Fashion Shows Events In The World

The fashion industry provides the world with a full calendar of fashion show events from across the world. From runway shows to trade shows, the fashion world knows how to keep busy. But which events are not to be missed? As most things in the world, not all fashion events are created equal. Some events just top the hot list year after year.

Here is a list of the top ten annual fashion events to attend, or at least dream of attending don’t forget to add them your bucket list.

1. Paris Fashion Week

The greatest of all fashion shows, it is one of the most celebrated fashion weeks held in bi-annually in Paris one of the four fashion capitals of the world. The event is held to showcase Spring-Summer and Autumn-Winter collections at the respective times of each year. Many of the notables in the fashion industry, as well as the well-known connoisseurs of fashion attend the event to view the designs.

Some of the famous designers who place their latest creations on display include Dior, Paul Smith, Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Julien David, Barbara Bui, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Valentino, Miu Miu

2. New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week is a biannual event which occurs in February and September of each in New York, one of the primary fashion capitals around the globe. The New York Fashion Week event is considered to be among the four major fashion weeks in the world next to London, Milan, and Paris.

The event is attended by some of the biggest fashion names in the industry including Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Dianne von Furstenberg, Tommy Hilfiger, Herve Leger, Brooks Brothers, Alexander Wang, and many more. It was established in the early 1940s and was the first fashion event across the world. The purpose of the event is showcase American fashions which ordinarily play a secondary role to French designs.

3. Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week (Italian: Settimana della moda) is a clothing trade show held semi-annually in Milan, Italy. The autumn/winter event is held in February/March of each year, and thespring/summer event is held in September/October of each year. An event of glitz and glamour in Milan, Italy among the big Four Fashion Capitals around the world, the Milan Fashion Week occurs bi-annually like its counterparts every year.

It is scheduled in the months of February-March for the Spring Summer Collection and September- October for the Autumn Winter Collection. It begun in the year 1958 and since has been counted as one of the most illustrious shows the world over. Prestigious fashion houses are part of this event which includes Dolce & Gabanna, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, and Prada among others.

4. London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week is one of the primary four fashion week events around the globe which takes place bi- annually during February and September. The event showcases the latest trends and designs in womenswear and is attended by top designers and fashion houses in the industry who flock to the event to exhibit their latest creations.

It was launched in the early 1980s and is organised by the British Fashion Council discussed earlier.

Some of the designer fashions on exhibit include Antonio Berardi, Alexander White, Burberry, Beth Gilmour, Christopher Kane, Claire Barrow, David Koma, Eudon Choi, Erdem, Finlay & Co., Giles, Holly Fulton, Jasper Conran, Kevin Geddes, Lucilla Gray, Margaret Howell, Noel Stewart, Osman, Simone Rocha, Vivienne Westwood, and many more.

5. Berlin Fashion Week

Berlin Fashion Week is a relatively new event which takes place at Brandbenburg Gate each year during the months of January and July. The event was initiated in 2007 with the purpose of showcasing up and coming designer’s creations. Berlin Fashion Week is a collaborative effort of the Berlin Senate and the Berlin Partner GmbH, the central contact agency for overseeing new operations and foreign trade to promote Berlin as a business hub. The event is sponsored by Mercedes-Benz which also sponsors a series of other fashion industry events.

Since the establishment of the Berlin Fashion Week event almost a decade ago, the event has gained international status for many new and upcoming designers. The designers are bringing their fashions to the Berlin capital in an effort to get started on their way in the highly competitive fashion industry. Attendees can view fashions from designers such as Dorothee Schumacher, Ewa Herzog, Fyodor Golan, Emre Ernemoglu, and more.

6. Australian Fashion Week

The Australian Fashion Week is an annual event held in the country which aims to feature the works of fashion houses and designers from the Australian and Asia Pacific regions. It was first held in the year 1995. This event brings the designers and the retail buyers under one roof and helps the latter to purchase the latest in fashion from them.

Some of the noted Fashion names associated with this event include Lisa Ho, Alex Perry, Zimmermann, Toni Maticevski, Leona Edmiston, J’Aton Couture, Ericaamerica and more.

7. Dubai Shopping Festival

Dubai Shopping Festival (DSF) started on 16 February 1996 as a retail event intended to benefit retail trade in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. It has since been promoted as a tourist attraction.It is an annual month-long event, usually scheduled during the first quarter of the year, and attracts about 3 million people to Dubai.

Over the 30 day period, visitors have access to the best fashion brands from around the world with special deals and promotions, in addition to attending a variety of arts and cultural events. The events take place in the Mall of the Emirates and include The International Festival of Fashion Photography from Cannes which is an extraordinary showcase of the latest beauty and fashion photography in large format by notable fashion photographers.

You can also experience events such as The Diamond Fashion Show by Dhamani which features notable jewellery designers who showcase their exquisite designs against a sparkling Burj Khalifa backdrop. The Dubai Shopping Festival website is a great place to discover more interesting fashion events during this annual extravaganza.

8. Tokyo Fashion Week

The Japanese are known for excelling in whatever they do. Fashion is not an area where they are lagging in any respect. The Tokyo Fashion Week is an event which has steadily climbed up the charts of popularity over the years.

The styles and trends showcased are bold and often very experimental. Some of the most unusual fashion trends have come out into the world through the Tokyo Fashion Week and it wouldn’t be a surprise if this event slowly becomes one of the best in the industry.

9. Africa Fashion Week London

Founded in 2011 by Ronke Ademiluyi, Africa Fashion Week London ( AFWL ) is Europe’s largest fashion event promoting and nurturing African and African-inspired design talent ,with a collaborative catwalk, exhibition and business development program, AFWL has led the way in highlighting Africa’s emerging designers and apparel industry and has been at the forefront of bringing awareness of Africa’s burgeoning fashion industry to the international market.

Since 2011, AFWL has hosted 8 catwalk events and contributed expertise to at least 10 more events produced by 3rd parties such as The Mayor of London’s Black History Month celebrations, they  have also showcased over 800 emerging designers & exhibitors, from Africa, Europe and America, to almost 70,000 visitors including buyers, retailers, influential industry professionals, and the media and is now a highlight on the annual fashion calendar.

AFWL brings value to designers through, contacts, experience and knowledge within the fashion community, with a core team made up of experienced fashion industry experts and business professionals, AFWL is committed to creating a platform for African and African inspired designers that not only showcases them to an international market, but also supports them in building a sustainable business that is globally recognized and promotes social change in Africa.

10. Los Angeles Fashion week

Los Angeles Fashion Week takes place twice, annually in numerous locations throughout the Los Angeles area. Currently, three event producers hold multiple day runway shows concurrent with Market Week (also known as LA Fashion Market).

While there are several productions that take place throughout the county of Los Angeles, a number of city officials, including Mayor Eric Garcetti and District 14 council member Jose Huizar, have awarded event organizers LAFW the official event status

CFDA Fashion Awards

The CFDA Fashion Awards, also known as the Fashion industry Oscars, this annual event recognizes individuals in the American Fashion Industry with awards for design excellence and extraordinary accomplishments in journalism and creative vision, according to the CFDA.

There is also a lifetime achievement given each year. But the highlight of this award show is of course the red carpet. Stars and industry people dress to impress in the best of high fashion. It is not only an event; it is a star studded runway show.

Fashion shows debut every season, particularly the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter seasons,this is where the latest fashion trends are made.

Content courtesy of Nairobi fashion hub Digital Team

 

Kenneth Ize Fall 2020 Ready to Wear at Paris Fashion Week

Kenneth Ize made his official debut at Paris Fashion Week tonight, though his eponymous label has been making waves on the international circuit for the past few seasons. The Austrian-Nigerian designer was an LVMH prize finalist this past September having first caught the world’s attention at Lagos Fashion Week a few months prior.

Images of Naomi Campbell and Imaan Hammam striding down Ize’s runway in his signature handwoven checks, a traditional Nigerian fabric known as Asoke, caused something of a global social media frenzy.

Both women were present at the show this evening Hammam opened, while Campbell closed what was a truly impressive first outing for Ize. The designer is best known for his men’s tailoring, though he kicked things off on a distinctly feminine note with a quilted striped mini skirt and matching funnel neck zippered jacket.

Ize tends to work best in an androgynous zone, however, and his strongest moments were shaped by a workwear influence think, carpenter pants spun from silk and fringed at the hem. Adwoa Aboah looked especially striking in one of his new quilted boiler suits.

Ize has been working with a small circle of Asoke weavers in Nigeria with the hopes of preserving the centuries-old craft from the brink of extinction. For fall, he expanded on that commitment to local artisanship by collaborating with Austrian lace-makers in Vienna where he was born and raised.

The green and orange lace tunics and suiting were a nod to Ize’s mother, who, like many West African women, would source Viennese lace to make custom outfits for special occasions. The collection was largely inspired by her meticulous approach to Sunday Best in particular; the devil was in the details here, with matching fringed bucket bags and clutches made in collaboration with Austrian accessories label, Sagan. It’s exquisite transcultural fashion experiments like these that will put Ize and his heirloom-worthy designs on the map.

This article originally appeared on Vogue

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