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Saturday 2nd of November 2024

Nairobi, Kenya

CFDA Awards 2024: A New Era of Fashion, Diversity, and Social Change

The 2024 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards, often called the Oscars of American fashion, unveiled a generational and ideological shift within the industry. Held under the majestic blue whale at the Museum of Natural History, this year’s event did more than celebrate design; it echoed the urgency of our current socio-political landscape.

Fashion has often been its own echo chamber, yet as New York Fashion Week demonstrated with its get-out-the-vote march, the industry is stepping into the role of social advocate. Michael Kors, who won the Positive Change Award, set the tone, and presenter Blake Lively, dressed in his design, highlighted the increasing commitment of fashion icons to inspire meaningful social shifts.

Senator Kirsten Gillibrand took the stage, urging attendees to channel their drive and creativity toward inspiring others, as CFDA chairman Thom Browne echoed her sentiments, comparing fashion’s individual expression to the choices in democracy. Browne reminded the crowd that both fashion and democracy offer avenues to shape the future, emphasizing the impact of these individual decisions.

A generational shift was clear in the major award winners. Raul Lopez of Luar, a Dominican-American designer, won Accessories Designer of the Year, celebrating his heritage and journey in a field where he once had to sneak into libraries to hone his craft. Willy Chavarria’s win for Menswear Designer of the Year honored his work “América,” which pays homage to laborers and includes merchandise supporting the ACLU, a tribute to the often-overlooked labor force. Rachel Scott of Diotima, who brings Caribbean culture to a cosmopolitan audience, took home Womenswear Designer of the Year, further proving that diversity in culture translates to diversity in design.

The CFDA Board of Directors paid tribute to the late Isabel Toledo, an independent Cuban-American designer renowned for crafting Michelle Obama’s 2009 inauguration dress. This honor underscored the growing influence of designers representing minority voices and pushing for industry evolution.

Humor and camaraderie complemented the evening’s gravity. Host Cynthia Erivo dazzled in a Gap fishtail gown with an avant-garde hoodie and challenged Marc Jacobs to a “nail off,” while André 3000 and Erykah Badu, presenting her with the Style Icon Award, created a memorable moment of fashion nostalgia and love. Stars like Angel Reese, Da’Vine Joy Randolph, Katie Holmes, Yseult, and Charles Melton graced the event in designs that embodied the vibrancy of this evolving industry.

As Lopez accepted his award, he stressed the importance of creating not only beauty but change. Chavarria added that while many in the room carry the weight of their roots as immigrants, people of color, or LGBTQ+ individuals, the responsibility to care about social issues extends to everyone, regardless of background. As Chavarria remarked, “It’s not just for us to worry about—it’s for everyone to worry about. And not just in fashion but in our lives, our communities, and our country.”

Quote:
“Fashion, at its best, is more than beauty—it’s a canvas for change.”

Content courtesy of New York Times & NFH Digital Team 

Fashion Designers at New York Fashion Week Embrace Nature with Fresh Perspectives

As New York Fashion Week unfolds, several designers are taking inspiration from nature in a way that goes beyond the usual floral prints or botanical motifs often seen in spring collections. Labels such as Collina Strada, Libertine, Christian Siriano, Rachel Antonoff, and Susan Alexandra are showcasing an amplified connection to nature, highlighting flora, fauna, and the joy of natural surroundings in innovative and thought-provoking ways.

Collina Strada’s Spring 2025 show, led by creative director Hillary Taymour, stands out for its explicit connection to the environment. Held outdoors at Marble Cemetery in the East Village, models walked through grass wearing prints inspired by nature, with some playful touches like a lawn mower and a model carrying a dog. Taymour’s show notes revealed the inspiration behind this naturalistic presentation: “In the intensity of this global election year, I found myself yearning to reconnect with the essentials—the simple, foundational elements that ground us and bring us comfort and joy… Ground yourself. Touch grass.”

The sentiment of finding joy in nature was echoed by other designers throughout the week. Rachel Antonoff and Susan Alexandra teamed up to celebrate the unconditional happiness that animals, particularly dogs, bring into our lives. Their collaborative show was themed around a playful “Best in Show” concept, reminding attendees of the happiness and comfort that pets provide, whether inside or outside.

Libertine’s Johnson Hartig took a more localized approach, using his Spring 2025 runway to champion the preservation of the beloved Elizabeth Street Garden in Soho, which is under threat of closure. In an ode to the garden, models walked through pebbles while carrying gardening tools, with guests receiving flowers and seed packets—a reminder of the significance of preserving green spaces in urban environments.

Christian Siriano, known for his whimsical and theatrical designs, brought a dreamy, fantastical interpretation of nature to the runway. Inspired by fairy tales and folklore, his Spring 2025 collection featured bold, romantic pieces surrounded by lush greenery. “This season felt like falling into an evening fantasy dream, centered around the idea of dark, romantic glamour,” Siriano explained in his show notes. His collection balanced elements of power and elegance with an enchanting escape into nature, drawing on stories like *Hansel and Gretel* and *Rapunzel*.

Collectively, these designers are offering more than just fashion—they’re providing a reminder to reconnect with the natural world. Whether it’s through a runway enveloped in greenery or a nod to the simple pleasures of a garden, they’re urging us to step away from screens and back into the elements that nourish our souls.

Content Courtesy of  Fashionista & NFH Digital Team

Is It Appropriate To Wear Shorts To Work? Thom Browne, The Designer, Weighs In

Since 2020, many of us have grown accustomed to the comfort of working from home, where the dress code often leaned more towards casual than corporate. As offices have reopened, this relaxed approach to workwear has persisted for many. With the rising temperatures across the country, the idea of wearing shorts to the office has likely crossed your mind. But is it appropriate, or should the thought be quickly dismissed?

To settle the debate, we turned to renowned fashion designer Thom Browne, famous for dressing celebrities at events like the Met Gala and for his distinctive collections. Browne, known for his iconic gray suits that often feature shorts, offered his expert perspective on this sartorial dilemma.

Can You Wear Shorts to the Office?

“If it’s appropriate in your line of work, then I think you should,” Browne told Morning Edition’s A Martinez. However, he cautioned that the decision to wear shorts should be context-dependent. “But I think there might be situations or certain offices where it is not [appropriate]. So, I think you have to kind of be respectful to where you are.”

Browne’s signature style often includes tailored shorts, which he famously wore to court during his legal battle with Adidas. For him, shorts are not just about comfort but also a way to challenge conventional norms. “I just love them because I like the comfort of them,” Browne said. “But I do also like the idea of almost driving people crazy because they don’t really understand what they’re seeing.”

Shorts in the Office: A Stylish Yet Subtle Statement

Despite his personal affinity for shorts, Browne acknowledges that wearing them in the office can be “a little off.” Reflecting on the early days of his career, Browne recalled the dress-down era in banking and other industries, which led him to champion a return to tailoring. “The reason why I wanted to reintroduce tailoring was because I was against the whole dressing down era,” he explained.

How to Wear Shorts to Work, According to Thom Browne

If you’re determined to incorporate shorts into your office wardrobe, Browne advises opting for a tailored pair, paired with a jacket. “I always feel like if you pair a pair of shorts with a tailored sport coat, it makes it a lot easier to make the shorts more appropriate for work,” he said. This combination mirrors a suit, with the trousers replaced by shorts, creating a balance between casual and professional.

However, Browne emphasizes that not all shorts are created equal when it comes to office attire. “You can’t just wear the same pair of shorts you would wear to the gym,” he noted. The addition of a jacket elevates the look, ensuring that the ensemble remains polished and work-appropriate.

When In Doubt, Play It Safe

For those who feel uncertain or uncomfortable about wearing shorts to the office, Browne’s advice is simple: “Just don’t do it.” Confidence in your attire is key, and if the thought of wearing shorts makes you apprehensive, it might be best to stick with more traditional workwear.

In conclusion, while wearing shorts to the office can be a stylish and comfortable option, it’s essential to consider the specific environment and culture of your workplace. If done thoughtfully, with tailored pieces and a balanced approach, shorts can be integrated into professional attire. But if there’s any doubt, it’s wise to err on the side of caution and save the shorts for after-hours.

Content courtesy of NPR & NFH Digital Team

Fashion Designers Kamala Harris Should Wear on the 2024 Presidential Campaign Trail

These style pros will have VP Harris looking her best from the runway to the rally. Politics may be partisan, but posh isn’t. With less than 100 days until Election Day, Vice President Kamala Harris has opted for powder blue power suits, pearl and gold jewelry, and pointy pumps. Understandably, Harris has played it safe during what is the most crucial political campaign of both her career and the country’s history. Her sartorial choices reflect a blend of elegance and authority, ensuring she remains stylish but not showy. Here are my top picks of designers that will elevate VP Harris’ wardrobe with timeless sophistication and contemporary flair.

1. Christopher John Rogers
As the founder of his eponymous fashion brand, Christopher John Rogers is known for creating bold, vibrant, and sculptural pieces that celebrate individuality and self-expression. Hailing from Baton Rouge, his designs, worn by celebrities like Zendaya and Cardi B, are characterized by their striking use of color and innovative silhouette. You may recall that Vice President Harris wore a gorgeous purple coat and dress during President Biden’s inauguration in January 2021. Designed by Rogers and Sergio Hudson, it was a standout look. If he did it before, he can certainly do it again.

2. Sergio Hudson
Speaking of Sergio Hudson, he designed not only VP Harris’ stunning purple inauguration look but also the showstopping plum ensemble worn by former First Lady Michelle Obama. Hudson has gone on to design several more looks for Harris, including a sexy sequined number. MVP Harris deserves an MVP designer, and for her, that’s Hudson.

3. Grace Wales Bonner
This designer is celebrated for her collections that often pay homage to her Jamaican heritage, something she shares with VP Harris. Fusing cross-cultural aesthetics with modern cuts, Bonner’s collections offer a unique blend of nostalgia and originality. As seen on Solange and Kendrick Lamar, Bonner’s work frequently features rich hues and elegant tracksuits, blending retro cool with contemporary style. Her approach to designing suits, merging traditional influences with modern sophistication, would be perfect for Harris.

4. Emily Adams Bode Aujla
Known for her craft-forward approach, Bode’s designs emphasize old-school craftsmanship with intricate embroidery and crochet knitwear. Focused on sustainability, Bode’s creations use vintage and recycled fabrics, making each piece a work of art. Considering her work genderless, Bode has been seen on a variety of celebrities, from JAY-Z to Lorde. The sleek silhouettes flatter the figure without being clingy—perfect for a future President.

5. LaQuan Smith
Renowned for his snazzy and glamorous designs, LaQuan Smith’s collections often feature bold cuts and luxurious materials. His pieces are ideal for making a dramatic entrance at any event but can be toned down when the occasion calls for it. Given that he’s dressed VP Kamala Harris before, I hope she circles back to his designs soon.

6. Rahul Mishra
Acclaimed for his detailed embroidery and commitment to sustainability, Mishra’s designs seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary styles. Style icons like Zendaya and Selena Gomez have stunned in his custom pieces. He can channel his aptitude for intricate designs into understated yet impactful looks that are professional while maintaining personality. Currently, Harris doesn’t wear much vibrant color on stage, but Mishra could introduce more of it to her palette.

7. Brandon Blackwood
Known for his chic handbags, Brandon Blackwood’s creations are both practical and stylish. His designs frequently showcase unique textures and vibrant hues. However, he has several bags in more muted tones like the satin Kendrick clutch JLo donned during Paris Couture Week. VP Harris has a knack for nudes, so I hope Blackwood sends a few her way.

8. Jamela Acheampong
As the founder of Kahmune, Jamela Acheampong focuses on creating inclusive footwear that complements a wide range of skin tones. Her shoes are designed to be both elegant and comfortable. I saw these leather heels and immediately thought they have Kamala written all over them! Madame Vice President Harris loves her nude pumps, so these need to be at her doorstep yesterday.

9. Bianca Saunders
Celebrated for her innovative approach to menswear, Bianca Saunders merges classic tailoring with modern twists. Her collections often explore the interplay of conventional gender norms, stretching the boundaries of masculine and feminine stereotypes. The way she expertly added subtle yet standout flair to Usher’s 2023 Met Gala fit is a shining example. There are several theories as to why VP Harris opts for pantsuits, and Saunders will ensure she continues to do so in style.

10. Maximilian Davis
As the creative director of Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis brings a fresh perspective to the brand with his sleek, contemporary designs. His work is characterized by clean lines and sophisticated details, as seen on A$AP Rocky, Naomi Campbell, and Dua Lipa. I laid eyes upon this brown monochrome look from his Pre-Spring 2025 collection and haven’t been able to forget it since. I’d be interested in seeing VP Harris opt for alternatives to the traditional pantsuit, and this could be one of them.

11. Naeem Khan
Naeem Khan’s designs, seen from Nordstrom to Saks Fifth, can create something pretty, professional, sleek, and statement-making for Harris. After all, he has already proven himself by dressing political powerhouses like Michelle Obama. Khan could create a smashing evening look for the 2025 Presidential inauguration.

12. Valerie Madison
Don’t forget the jewels. From gold to pearls to diamonds, Valerie Madison makes necklaces, earrings, and bracelets fit for a President. VP Harris has a penchant for the understated luxury of gold and pearls. This necklace from Madison would be a stunning addition to her collection.

13. Rihanna
Through her brand Fenty, Rihanna has transformed the fashion industry with her inclusive and trendsetting designs. Fenty’s collections are known for their bold, edgy aesthetics and commitment to diversity. Despite the discontinuation of Fenty Maison in 2021, Rihanna’s designs are still iconic. Dressing the highest-ranking woman in political office during this historic election cycle would be the perfect opportunity for a comeback.

These designers, with their unique styles and commitment to excellence, are poised to elevate VP Harris’ campaign wardrobe, blending elegance, authority, and contemporary flair.

The Changing Face of Prom in Ugandan High Schools

Prom, a hallmark event in the lives of secondary school students, has seen a significant transformation in Uganda. Traditionally, prom was a relatively low-key affair, but over the years, it has evolved into a grand celebration that reflects changing societal norms, cultural influences, and the growing importance of social media. This evolution mirrors broader trends in the country’s education system and social landscape.

Increasing Popularity and Extravagance

In the past, prom in Ugandan secondary schools was a simple event with modest decorations and basic entertainment. However, today’s proms have become much more elaborate, mirroring Western influences and global trends. Schools now invest significantly in creating memorable experiences, often hiring professional event planners, decorators, and entertainers. Venues are chosen for their ambiance and capacity to host grand celebrations, and themes range from classic elegance to contemporary chic.

 

Fashion and Attire

Fashion has become a central aspect of prom in Uganda. Students now view prom as an opportunity to showcase their personal style and make a statement. Long, elegant gowns and tailored suits are the norm, with many students opting for custom-made outfits. This shift reflects a desire to emulate global fashion trends and present a polished, sophisticated image. Schools like Gayaza High School have instituted dress codes to ensure that students maintain a level of decency and propriety. As a school representative stated, “We dictate that they must have a long, decent dress—that is the standard now at Gayaza because we want them to present themselves as ladies.”

Role of Social Media

The advent of social media has had a profound impact on the nature of prom in Ugandan secondary schools. Platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok are flooded with prom photos and videos, turning the event into a highly anticipated social media spectacle. This digital exposure has raised the stakes, encouraging students to go all out in their preparations. The need to capture the perfect prom moment has led to greater investment in professional photography and videography.

Cultural Sensitivity and Modern Values

Prom in Uganda has had to navigate the delicate balance between modern values and cultural sensitivity. While the event increasingly incorporates elements of global pop culture, there is a conscious effort to maintain cultural respect and integrity. This is particularly evident in dress codes and behavior guidelines. Schools are mindful of how their students are portrayed both within and outside the school community, aiming to uphold the institution’s reputation and the student’s dignity.

Economic Considerations

The growing extravagance of prom has also brought economic considerations to the forefront. While some families can afford the high costs associated with modern proms, others may find it financially burdensome. Schools and communities are becoming more aware of this disparity and some have introduced measures to ensure inclusivity. This includes subsidizing tickets, providing rental options for attire, or organizing fundraisers to support students who may not have the means to fully participate.

Educational and Social Impact

Prom is more than just a glamorous event; it plays a significant role in the social development of students. It provides a platform for students to practice social etiquette, build confidence, and celebrate their academic achievements. Schools often use prom as an opportunity to teach important life skills, such as planning, budgeting, and social interaction. As the event becomes more prominent, its educational and developmental potential is increasingly recognized.

The changing face of prom in Ugandan secondary schools reflects broader societal shifts and the dynamic interplay between tradition and modernity. What was once a modest celebration has transformed into a major social event, influenced by global trends, cultural values, and the pervasive reach of social media. As schools navigate these changes, they aim to create an inclusive, respectful, and memorable experience that celebrates the achievements and potential of their students. This evolution signifies not only a shift in how prom is celebrated but also an adaptation to the changing aspirations and realities of Ugandan youth.

Content Courtesy of NFH Digital Team

Met Gala 2024: Everything They’re Wearing On The 2024 Met Gala Red Carpet And Who Wore The Best Dress At The Event.

One more Met Gala to add to the collection today. With the theme “Garden of Time” and the title “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” celebrities, designers, and stylists alike occupied the Upper East Side for the 2024 Met Gala. The greatest red carpet trends (apart from lace, corsets, and leather) included birds, loads of florals, and tributes to John Galliano. Stylists combed into the archives to find looks inspired by gardens for their themes. The Loewe crew, which included Taylor Russell, Greta Lee, and Josh O’Connor, was astonished, while Tyla ruled the red carpet in Balmain. Zendaya debuted two looks. Loewe? It’s all explained here.

Who walked the red carpet at the 2024 Met Gala?
Chris Hemsworth, Jennifer Lopez, Bad Bunny, and Zendaya appeared first as hosts. And thank God, Zendaya gave us two Met Gala moments when we really needed one! When Tyla arrived wearing a “sand” outfit, she essentially walked the red carpet. Ayo Edeberi, Lauren Sanchez, Taylor Russell, Omar Apollo, Mike Faist, Gracie Abrams, Nicholas Galitzine, Rachel Sennott, and Angel Reese were among the many notable first-timers in attendance. Additionally, Shou Chew, the CEO of TikTok, and Jonathan Anderson of Loewe were honorary chairs. Surprisingly, though, none of the major TikTokers made their red carpet appearance.

Who did you think looked the best at the Met Gala?
We adored Gwendoline Christie in a bespoke Maison Margiela, Emma Chamberlain in a Jean Paul Gaultier, Zendaya in a John Galliano, Jennifer Lopez in a custom Schiaparelli Haute Couture, and Gigi Hadid in a Thom Browne. See our most creative, bizarre, and terrible looks here.

What was the theme again?
The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art chose a slightly less contentious option following last year’s tribute to Karl Lagerfeld. “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” an exhibition organized by the Costume Institute, focuses on forgotten and delicate clothing. Current pieces by designers Phillip Lim and Stella McCartney are on display, along with archival designs from fashion icons like Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Haut de Givenchy, to mention a few. Regarding the dress code (yes, they do differ), it focused on “The Garden of Time” and offered participants the option to play with the garden aspect or give a reference to the past with more vintage designs and artifacts.

Did Rihanna Show Up?
We lost out on Rihanna when she first announced she would be there, but a source later revealed to People that she is sick. Although disappointing, the event concluded on schedule.

The Met Gala 2024 unfolded on May 6, with attendees bedecked in enchanting ensembles, perfectly aligning with the event’s theme, “A Garden in Time,” inspired by the exhibit “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.” Leading the charge were luminaries such as Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya, Chris Hemsworth, and Bad Bunny, who graced the iconic steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in support of the museum’s Costume Institute. As guests traversed the red carpet, anticipation mounted over who would defy conventions and whose attire would etch itself into the annals of Met Gala history.

Amidst the allure and intrigue surrounding the event, we meticulously documented over 160 celebrities and their sartorial choices. From daring creations that push the boundaries of fashion to timeless classics exuding elegance, every ensemble promises a captivating visual feast. Would any appearances rival the most controversial outfits of all time, or would they ascend to the pantheon of the best-dressed? As the evening unfolded, the suspense was palpable, with speculation rife about surprise guests and the stalwarts of the Met Gala circuit, including luminaries like Blake Lively and Sarah Jessica Parker.

Our live blog chronicled each momentous arrival, capturing the essence of Fashion Prom in real-time. From the captivating red carpet debuts to the intricacies of each ensemble, no detail was overlooked. Following the main event, our curated list of best-dressed celebrities provided insights into the most captivating and trendsetting looks of the evening. And for those craving more, our coverage extended to the exclusive afterparty, unveiling a trove of unseen photos capturing the essence of post-Gala revelry.

Stay tuned as we unravel the captivating tapestry of fashion and spectacle from the Met Gala 2024, where every moment is an ode to creativity, extravagance, and the enduring allure of haute couture.

Content courtesy of The Cut & NFH Digital Team

“My Brother’s Keeper”: A Testament to Nigerian Heritage and Local Craftsmanship in Fashion

In an era where the global fashion industry often overshadows local creativity and production, Badesere Lagos introduces “My Brother’s Keeper,” a pioneering fashion collection that brings the spotlight back to Nigerian heritage and local craftsmanship.

Spearheaded by the visionary Badesere Aboyade-Cole, this collection is a vibrant celebration of Nigeria’s resilience, beauty, and rich cultural tapestry, offering a fresh perspective on African fashion through the lens of local production and exceptional artisanship.

Embracing Local Fabrics with Global Appeal
At the heart of “My Brother’s Keeper” is a commitment to utilizing locally sourced fabrics, a choice that not only highlights the unique textures and patterns inherent to Nigerian culture but also supports the local economy and the artisans behind the scenes. This collection stands as a bold statement against the conventional reliance on imported materials, showcasing the untapped potential of Nigerian resources. Each piece in the collection is meticulously crafted, reflecting the intricate details and high-quality workmanship of Nigeria’s skilled artisans.

Innovating African Fashion
Badesere Aboyade-Cole’s approach to the “My Brother’s Keeper” collection is revolutionary, focusing on versatility and innovative construction techniques that challenge the status quo of African fashion. The collection’s designs transcend traditional boundaries, offering wearers pieces that are not only culturally significant but also align with contemporary fashion sensibilities. It is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, embodying the spirit of progress that drives the Nigerian community forward.

A Call to Collective Empowerment
The ethos of “My Brother’s Keeper” extends beyond the realm of fashion; it is a clarion call for unity and collective empowerment. Badesere Aboyade-Cole’s message is clear: by supporting local manufacturers and embracing our indigenous beauty, we can forge a brighter, more sustainable future for our communities. This collection serves as a reminder of the strength found in solidarity, echoing Frederick Douglass’s words that, without struggle, there can be no progress. It is an invitation to Nigerians and the global community to stand together in support of local production, thereby fostering economic growth and self-sufficiency.

Beyond Fashion: A Movement for Change
“My Brother’s Keeper” is more than a fashion collection; it is a movement towards empowerment, sustainability, and progress. It challenges us to rethink our consumption patterns, value the craftsmanship of our local artisans, and take pride in our cultural heritage. In doing so, it offers a pathway to a future where the fashion industry not only celebrates beauty in all its forms but also contributes to the well-being of the communities it touches.

Join the Journey
The launch of “My Brother’s Keeper” marks a significant milestone in the journey towards a more inclusive and sustainable fashion industry. Badesere Lagos, under the creative guidance of Badesere Aboyade-Cole, invites everyone to experience the beauty and craftsmanship of Nigerian fashion. By embracing this collection, you become part of a movement that values heritage, supports local production, and believes in the power of community to drive change.

Follow the journey and explore the collection: Badesere Aboyade-Cole @Badeserelagos.

In embracing “My Brother’s Keeper,” we not only witness the evolution of African fashion but also contribute to building a legacy of innovation, resilience, and unity. This is more than fashion; it’s a celebration of our identity, a nod to our past, and a step towards a future where every thread tells a story of empowerment and progress.

Content  courtesy of Badesere Aboyade-Cole, Mo AfricanPR & NFH Digital Team 

Milan Fashion Week’s Fall/winter 2024–2025 Collection Fights Discrimination And Shines A Light On Black Designers

In a world where fashion serves as a mirror to society’s evolving norms and values, Milan Fashion Week’s fall-winter 2024-25 collection has emerged as a beacon of progress and inclusivity. The prestigious event, long revered for its influence in setting global fashion trends, took a bold step forward this season by casting a spotlight on black designers, who have historically been underrepresented in the industry. This initiative is not just a nod to diversity but a comprehensive effort to combat discrimination, signaling a seismic shift in the fashion landscape.

A Platform for Underrepresented Talent

Milan Fashion Week has always been a stage for the world’s most renowned designers to showcase their artistry. However, this year’s focus on black designers marks a pivotal moment in the event’s history. By providing a platform for these talented individuals, the week not only celebrated the richness of their cultural heritage but also underscored the importance of diversity and representation in fashion. This move is a clear acknowledgment of the unique perspectives and creativity that black designers bring to the table, enriching the industry with their diverse narratives and aesthetics.

Combatting Discrimination Through Collaboration

The initiative to spotlight black designers was accompanied by a significant partnership between the Italian Fashion Council, a governmental anti-discrimination office, and a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting African fashion. This collaboration is a testament to the power of unity in driving social change. By signing an agreement to trace, identify, and fight against discriminatory practices, these organizations have laid down a comprehensive strategy aimed at fostering an environment of equality and respect within the fashion industry.

A Step Towards Inclusivity

The fall-winter 2024-25 collection at Milan Fashion Week serves as a critical step towards inclusivity in fashion. It goes beyond mere representation; it is about acknowledging and addressing the systemic barriers that have hindered black designers and other marginalized groups from receiving the recognition they deserve. This initiative sends a powerful message that fashion is for everyone, irrespective of their race and that the industry is committed to breaking down the walls of discrimination.

The Impact on the Industry

The spotlight on black designers at Milan Fashion Week is expected to have a ripple effect across the global fashion industry. It challenges other fashion weeks and designers to reflect on their practices and consider how they can contribute to a more inclusive and equitable industry. Moreover, it encourages consumers to support and celebrate diversity, not just in fashion but in all aspects of life.

Looking Forward

While the initiative at Milan Fashion Week is a significant milestone, it is just the beginning of a long journey towards full inclusivity in fashion. The success of this initiative should serve as a catalyst for continued efforts to ensure that all designers, regardless of their background, have equal opportunities to showcase their work and influence global fashion trends. The fashion world is watching, and the message is clear: the time for change is now.

In conclusion, Milan Fashion Week’s fall-winter 2024-25 collection has not just set the stage for the latest fashion trends but has also paved the way for a more inclusive and equitable industry. By shining the spotlight on black designers and launching an initiative to combat discrimination, the event has underscored the essential role of diversity in driving creativity and innovation in fashion. This landmark moment is a powerful reminder that fashion, at its best, is an expression of all of humanity’s rich tapestry, and everyone deserves a place on the runway.

Content courtesy of NFH Digital Team 

The 5 African Designers Showing At Paris Fashion Week Men’s

The men’s Paris Fashion Week has begun. Runway presentations take place back-to-back at various venues from January 16 to 21 to contribute to the collection’s narrative. Seldom do we see black designers at PFW Men’s, much less at other fashion weeks like Milan or London. Out of over 60 designers, only five black designers are included on this specific calendar this year.
We are aware of the large number of black designers who would have contributed significantly to the official calendar; thus, this is extremely disappointing.

For example, it would have been wonderful to have Ozwald Boateng, Martine Rose, and Bianca Saunders in the starting lineup this season.

Well-known companies like Wales Bonner and up-and-coming companies like Lagos Space Programme will showcase their newest collections in the coming days. Bonner’s structured suits and frequently Jamaican-inspired items have benefited greatly from her research-based design approach. According to WWD, Balmain, the brand led by Olivier Rousteing, will make a comeback to the Paris Fashion Week schedule with its final presentation on Saturday, the 20th.
The men’swear collection of the firm will be highlighted in the exhibition. From his beginnings at Robert Cavalli in 2003 to his position as creative director at Balmain, Rousteing’s trajectory has served as a source of inspiration for several young black designers.

1. Botter
The gender-neutral Caribbean brand, which was co-founded in 2017 by Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, was a nominee for the LVMH award in 2018 and received the Andam prize in 2022. The brand is well-known for its “Caribbean couture” design guidelines, which feature vivid hues and creative concepts like dressing pants like sweaters.

Herrebrugh attended the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, while Botter studied design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Because of the viral success of their Spring/Summer 2023 runway show featuring models wearing floaty condom gloves, the duo’s display this season promises to be nothing short of extraordinary.

2. Wales Bonner
In only a few short years since Grace Wales Bonner founded the menswear brand in 2014, it has grown from a startup to established status. Numerous rappers, including Tyler, the Creator, and Kendrick Lamar, have expressed interest in her designs.
In addition, Bonner draws influence from her Jamaican background for items that have an island vibe.
The presentation by Wales Bonner is scheduled for January 17 at 6:30 p.m. local time.

3. Lagos Space Programme
Designer Adeju Thompson founded the Lagos Space Program in 2018. The non-binary luxury company has seen significant growth over the past several years. Thompson’s brand philosophy revolves around African design codes, blackness, and the harmony between beauty and masculinity.
Thompson, who was raised in the UK and was born in Lagos, began their career in 2013 as an apprentice at the Lagos-based Maki Oh label before starting their label.
Following that, Thompson was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2021 and went on to win the International Woolmark Prize in 2023. Additionally, Thompson’s creations were included in the “Africa Fashion” exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Lagos Space Programme will be presenting on January 19 between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. local time.

4. Winnie New York
Idris Balogun created Winnie New York in 2018, intending to dismantle luxury. Balogun’s Nigerian background greatly influences his design techniques; each piece he creates incorporates a personal narrative. Before starting his own company, he worked as an apprentice for Tom Ford and Burberry. With that knowledge, Balogun has concentrated on making perfectly-made, high-quality items that last. At the next runway presentation, don’t expect transient gimmicks but rather superb suiting.
The presentation by Winnie New York is scheduled for January 21 at 11:30 a.m. local time.

5. Balmain
At the age of 24, Olivier Rousteing has held the position of creative director at Balmain since 2011—a remarkable accomplishment for many black designers. Even in and of itself, his career’s durability at such a young age is inspirational.
For over 13 years, he radically altered Balmain’s look from that of his predecessor to include a stronger couture component. Notable accomplishments include reviving a fashion brand and designing special ensembles for Beyoncé’s most successful tour.
Rousteing’s ability to adapt and shift perceptions as a black designer in the fashion world has not gone unnoticed. Balmain’s next collection marks the brand’s independent menswear debut and adds to Rousteing’s library of avant-garde concepts.

 

Content  courtesy of Essence Magazine & NFH 

 

“Africa Can Be Transformed By Fashion”: The Trailblazing Designers Seeking Unimaginable Opportunities

Style and skill abound, but experts claim that until Africa invests in its textile sector, it will never reach its full potential.
The designers and tailors at a tiny Lagos fashion company are hard at work carving precise lines through the large rolls of cloth. Designer Oroma Cookey-Gam, co-founder of This is Us, says, “Cotton T-shirts were the first item we produced.”
The company uses locally grown cotton to create modern Nigerian designs, such as oversized shirts, jumpsuits, and kaftans.
Cookey-Gam travels to the Funtua textile mill, one of the few fully functional mills in the nation, in Katsina, the northern region, once a month to get the cotton.

The cloth is then hand-dyed into colors of indigo for up to eight hours in the Kofar Mata dye pit in Kano, the oldest pit in Nigeria, a three-hour trip away.
Cookey-Gam used to buy cotton from Turkey and Morocco, but she started a year-long quest in 2016 to find suppliers inside her nation.
Even though cotton is grown in two-thirds of African countries, with some of the continent’s biggest producers located in West Africa, more than 81% of it is exported from sub-Saharan Africa, leaving little for domestic use.
According to recent Unesco research, the region’s economic prospects were being negatively impacted by exports, which were limiting the expansion of the textile and apparel sectors.

Ernesto Ottone is the assistant director-general for culture at Unesco. “Africa is exporting something that could create a huge industry and an enormous number of jobs,” Ottone adds.
Like other African countries, Nigeria’s textile sector flourished in the 1960s and 1970s before collapsing when a flood of secondhand and foreign-made clothing entered the continent as a result of trade liberalization measures.
Nowadays, sourcing materials presents significant hurdles for companies such as This is Us.

According to Cookey-Gam, Nigerian ginsneries, which extract the seeds from cotton, deal with big orders and are hence less interested in selling to fashion companies. “The mill didn’t take us seriously when we initially visited there. She explains how she teamed up with other businesses to generate large purchases, saying, “They said they can’t work with fashion because the orders are not big enough.”

African-made products have become more and more popular throughout the world in recent years, thanks to the rise of Afrobeats and contemporary cultural representations of the continent like the Black Panther movies. Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie are among the well-known black individuals who have supported the work of regional and diaspora designers.

Younger people have adopted modern twists in African architecture and materials in fashion. Burkina Faso-born designer Sébastien Bazemo has contributed to the resurgence of fashion for the vibrant Kôkô Dunda cloth. Additionally, there are currently over 30 fashion weeks held annually around the continent.

According to businesswoman Omoyemi Akerele, who oversees Lagos’s yearly fashion week, “it’s a season of ownership.” “In the past few years, creators and designers have doubled down to communicate and re-emphasize who they are in a way that’s true to themselves and the communities they represent. Before now, [the African fashion industry] pandered a bit to the Eurocentric gaze.”

“Made in Africa” campaigns have gained popularity recently, particularly among the continent’s expanding middle class. However, African designers claim that their creations are still too expensive for many Africans to purchase because of the high expenses associated with producing and importing basic materials, which has an impact on final prices.
The primary customer base for This is Us comprises African diaspora residents and Nigerian creatives, with items priced between 50,000 and 150,000 Nigerian naira (£50 and £150).
Famous Nigerien designer Alphadi (Sidahmed Seidnaly) is in favor of proposals for African nations to increase the production of non-cotton textiles and restrict textile imports.
Even though the fashion industry on the continent is becoming more well-known, he claims that policy and investment assistance are still lacking.

Citing well-known European designers, he claims that “investors, buyers, and policymakers, who can make African fashion take off, do not understand the difficulty of being an African designer.” “People wager on them, and in this industry, that can mean the difference between success and failure.”

The designer, who operates in the city of Niger, Niamey, as well as in the Ivory Coast and Morocco, claims that he has had to invest a significant amount of his cash to continue in business, even though he is one of the continent’s fashion pioneers.

African fashion investors claim that while funding individual designers is popular, fundamental problems like local manufacturing capacity that financiers and legislators need to address for the sector to thrive are not addressed. They assert that in the absence of such steps, investments would only result in transient success as opposed to long-lasting, expandable companies.
“We need to look at building the infrastructure and giving the capacity for designers to thrive—for them to access different textiles locally,” says Roberta Annan, creator of the Impact Fund for African Creatives (IFFAC), an organization that invests in creative enterprises across Africa.

To grow the industry, IFFAC provides grants and investments of up to £1.7 million to sustainable fashion enterprises. To boost domestic textile production, it recently purchased a government-owned mill in Ghana.
Such initiatives, according to designers, have the potential to be revolutionary.
According to Cookey-Gam, “African fashion is still very young, and we need [various] elements to make things at high quality.” “Fashion is a tool we can use to improve people’s lives and employs a lot of people.” It has the power to alter the continent.

Content Courtesy of The Guardian & NFH